Sadza rezviyo

Sadza rezviyo (Shona for 'finger-millet sadza') is the original sadza — the version made before maize arrived from the Americas and became the national starch. Finger millet (rapoko, or zviyo) was the staple grain of the Shona for at least two thousand years, and its flour produces a darker, denser, more nutritious sadza than maize. The grain is still grown in the eastern highlands (Manicaland) and is favored for its low glycemic index, nutty flavor, and use in traditional beer. The porridge is made the same way as maize sadza, but with a darker color and earthier taste.

A dollop of dense, dark-reddish-brown porridge, stiffer than maize sadza, with a nutty, earthy flavor all its own. The texture is slightly gritty from the millet bran. Pinch it with the right hand, scoop a vegetable relish, eat. It tastes like something old — the way Zimbabwe ate before the Americas.

Finger millet flour is more difficult to work with than maize meal — it forms lumps easily, so the porridge must be whisked more vigorously. The flour contains more fiber and bran, which gives the porridge its gritty texture and dark color. Like maize sadza, the technique is to bring water to a boil, whisk in a little flour to make a paste (avoids lumps), cook briefly, then add the remaining flour in stages, beating hard until smooth and very thick.