Inswa are the winged flying termites (Macrotermes falciger) that swarm at the start of Zambia's rainy season — collected at first rain, de-winged, and fried crisp in their own oil with a pinch of salt. They are a celebrated seasonal delicacy, nutty and bacon-like, eaten by the handful or stirred into nshima relish.
Inswa (Bemba for winged termites; also called iswa in Nyanja) are the alates of the macrotermes termite, which emerge in their millions at the first heavy rains of November. Across Zambia, the first rain triggers a national ritual: lamps are lit at night to attract the swarms, which are caught in basins and buckets, de-winged, and fried. This is distinct from vinkubala (caterpillars) — termites and caterpillars are different insects harvested in different seasons (termites: rainy season emergence; caterpillars: dry-season tree harvest). The dish is documented in UNZA entomophagy research as one of Zambia's four staple edible insects.
A bowl of small, dark, crisp insects, glistening with their own oil. The first bite is the crunch; then a deep nutty, almost bacon-y richness floods the tongue. Salt is the only seasoning. Eat by the handful with a cold beer, or stir into nshima. They taste like the rain that brought them.
The termites are caught at night (drawn to lamps after the first rain), de-winged immediately (the wings are bitter and papery), then fried in a dry pan. Crucially, no oil is added — the termites fry in their own fat, which renders out as they cook. A pinch of salt at the end is all the seasoning. The frying must be brief (5-7 minutes) — overcooking makes them bitter and burnt.
Variations
Some sun-dry them for storage; some add a little onion; some eat them ground into a paste stirred into relish.
On the Palate
Where Inswa sits in the Zambian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
7 steps · 20 min active + 10 min waiting
- 130 min
At the first heavy rain, collect 500 g live winged termites (inswa) at night using a lamp and basin.
- 23 min
Remove the wings by tossing them gently in a basket (the wings float away).
- 32 min
Heat a dry cast-iron pan over medium heat.
- 41 min
Add the de-winged termites; they will release their own oil.
Watch outAdd no oil — the termites render their own fat as they heat; a dry pan is right, and that sizzle means the fat is coming out.
- 57 min
Stir constantly 5-7 minutes until crisp and dark.
Watch outStir constantly and stop at crisp-and-dark — just 5 to 7 minutes; push past and they scorch bitter fast.
- 61 min
Sprinkle with coarse salt off the heat.
- 71 min
Eat hot by the handful, or stir into a vegetable relish.
