Rewena Paraoa

Rewena Paraoa (literally 'bug bread' — rewena is the Māori word for the fermented potato starter, often called 'the bug') is the defining bread of Māori cuisine. When wheat flour was introduced to Māori by European settlers in the 19th century, Māori adapted their knowledge of fermentation (used for preserving crops) to create a sourdough starter from potato. The 'bug' — a fermented potato-and-flour mixture left for several days — became the leavening for a dense, slightly sweet, tangy loaf. Every Māori family has its own bug, passed down through generations; the bug is fed and kept alive indefinitely, like a treasured pet.

A dense, golden-brown loaf with a tight crumb and a thick crust. The flavor is unlike any wheat-flour sourdough — sweeter, with a soft tang from the potato fermentation, and a faint earthiness. Tear it warm, spread with butter, or slice and fry it as parāoa parai (fried bread). It is the bread of every marae, every tangi, every Māori gathering.

The 'bug' (rewena) is made by boiling a potato, mashing it with its cooking water, flour, and sugar, and leaving it in a warm place for 3-7 days until it bubbles actively. The wild yeasts and bacteria from the potato ferment the sugars, creating a sourdough starter with a distinctively sweet-potato character. This starter is then mixed with flour, water, and salt to make the bread dough, which is fermented overnight and baked. The bread keeps well (the acidity preserves it) and improves with a day's rest.