Hernekeitto is the old Finnish pea soup eaten on Thursdays, a habit born of the Catholic Friday fast that long outlived the Reformation. The Finnish Defence Forces still serve it every Thursday, traditionally followed by oven pancake.
Thick and almost velvety, the soup tastes earthy and deeply savory from the pork, with a faint sweetness from the peas. A dab of sharp mustard lifts each spoonful with bright heat. It is humble, filling, and warming on a cold day.
Long simmering breaks down the peas' starches and proteins so they thicken the broth naturally without any added flour. Cooking the pork in the soup renders fat and gelatin that give body and savory depth.
Variations
Finnish versions traditionally use whole or split green peas (Sweden and Denmark use yellow); vegetarian without pork, smoked ham hock instead of salt pork, or with sausage added
On the Palate
Where Hernekeitto (Finnish Pea Soup) sits in the Finnish flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
7 steps · 20 min
- 110 min
Soak dried yellow split peas in plenty of cold water overnight, then drain.
- 25 min
Place the peas in a large pot with fresh water and a piece of bone-in salted pork.
- 310 min
Bring to a boil and skim off the foam and any loose pea skins that rise.
Watch outSkim off the grey foam and loose skins as they rise to the top — clearing it now keeps the finished soup clean-tasting instead of muddy.
- 490 min
Lower the heat and simmer, partly covered, until the peas begin to break down, about 1.5 hours.
Watch outSimmer low and slow until the peas start collapsing on their own — that's what thickens the soup; hurry it and the peas stay hard and the broth stays thin.
- 510 min
Lift out the pork, dice the meat, and return it to the pot, discarding the bone.
- 620 min
Season with salt and a little marjoram, simmering until the soup is thick and creamy.
- 75 min
Serve hot with strong mustard stirred in at the table.
