Eezgii
Mongolian

Eezgii

Medium·20 min

Roasted cheese curds cooked down into crunchy, caramel-brown nuggets. Unlike pale, pressed dried byaslag or sun-dried aaruul, eezgii is simmered and roasted until the milk sugars brown, giving it a nutty, granola-like crunch and gentle sweetness.

Eezgii is a long-keeping milk food of the Mongolian steppe, traditionally made from fresh milk, the curds left after churning butter, or sometimes the rich first milk (colostrum) of a newly calved animal. The curds are slow-simmered and roasted in a pot until they caramelize and dry, a method that both preserves the protein for lean winter and spring months and develops the toasty, sweet flavor that sets it apart from the steppe's many other white foods.

Crunchy and crumbly like toasted granola clusters, with a warm caramel-and-toasted-milk flavor. Mildly sweet and nutty rather than sour, it dissolves slowly into a malty richness. Moreish by the handful.

Slow cooking and roasting drive off curd moisture for preservation while the Maillard reaction between milk proteins and lactose browns the curds, building the caramelized, nutty flavor and crisp texture that distinguish eezgii from pressed byaslag and sun-dried aaruul.

Variations

Sweetened with extra sugar; mixed with butter for richer texture; cooked more lightly for a milder roast

On the Palate

Where Eezgii sits in the Mongolian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 6

How it's made

8 steps · 20 min

  1. 1
    10 min

    Warm fresh whole milk and stir in yogurt or a souring agent to curdle it.

  2. 2
    15 min

    Let the curds separate from the whey, then strain through cloth.

  3. 3
    5 min

    Press the curds gently to remove excess whey but keep them moist.

  4. 4
    5 min

    Crumble the curds into a heavy dry pot or wide pan.

  5. 5
    25 min

    Roast over low heat, stirring constantly, as the moisture cooks off.

    Watch out

    Stir the curds without stopping over low heat — they scorch fast against a dry pan and burnt spots turn the whole batch bitter.

  6. 6
    10 min

    Continue until the curds turn golden-brown and smell toasty and caramelized.

    Watch out

    Take it to golden-brown with a toasty, caramel smell — that Maillard color and nutty aroma are what set eezgii apart from plain white curd.

  7. 7
    60 min

    Spread the roasted curds out to cool and dry into firm crunchy bits.

    Watch out

    Spread the curds out to cool and dry into firm, crunchy bits — piled hot they steam soft again.

  8. 8
    2 min

    Store in a dry container and eat as a snack or with milk tea.

Techniques

Dishes like this

More from Mongolian