French

Carre de l'Est

Lorraine·Medium·40 min

A square, soft bloomy-rind cow's milk cheese from Lorraine, its name — Square of the East — a reference both to its shape and to its eastern French origin. Aged about five weeks, it carries a faintly smoky, bacon-like note under its downy white rind.

Carre de l'Est is a French cheese originating from the Lorraine region of eastern France. Its name translates literally as Square of the East, a reference both to its shape — a square slab — and to its place of origin in the east of the country. No specific inventor or founding year is documented on the Wikipedia page, and the cheese does not hold an Appellation designation. It is a regional specialty, traditionally made from cow's milk and matured for roughly five weeks.

A square of Carre de l'Est yields under the knife to a soft, pale paste beneath a downy white bloomy rind. The texture is creamy and supple, somewhere between Camembert and a firmer Brie; the flavor is milky and gentle, with a characteristic faintly smoky, bacon-like note that distinguishes it from its closest relatives. Eaten at room temperature as a table cheese.

Carre de l'Est is a soft bloomy-rind cheese. Rennet coagulates cow's milk; the curd is ladled into square molds, drained, salted, and inoculated on the surface with a white mold — a Penicillium species, typically Penicillium camemberti. The mold grows across the surface during affinage, forming the downy white rind; it secretes enzymes that break down the paste from the outside in through proteolysis, softening the interior progressively to the creamy texture characteristic of bloomy-rind cheeses. The roughly five-week affinage is short, keeping the flavor mild; the characteristic smoky note develops during this surface ripening.

Variations

Made in pasteurized or thermized versions for wider distribution; the square form and the bloomy white rind are the constants.

On the Palate

Where Carre de l'Est sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 8

How it's made

5 steps · 40 min

  1. 1
    30 min

    Warm cow's milk, add starter and rennet, and let the curd set.

  2. 2
    30 min

    Ladle the curd gently into square molds and let drain.

  3. 3
    15 min

    Demold, salt the surfaces, and inoculate with Penicillium camemberti.

    Watch out

    Salt the surfaces and inoculate evenly with the Penicillium — patchy coverage means the white rind blooms unevenly and the paste won't soften right.

  4. 4
    60 min

    Age in a humid cellar at cool temperature for roughly five weeks, turning regularly.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Release when the rind is fully bloomed white and the paste is soft but still holds its square shape.

    Watch out

    Release when the rind is fully bloomed white and the paste is soft but still holds its square — over-ripe it slumps out of shape, under-ripe the center is chalky.

Techniques

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