French

Banon

Périgord·Medium·35 min

A small soft goat cheese of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, wrapped in dried brown chestnut leaves tied with raffia, traditionally soaked in Marc de Provence. The leaves trap moisture and impart a distinctive vegetal, slightly blue-cheese flavor as the cheese ages. Known since the thirteenth century; AOC granted in 2003 — the first AOC of the region.

Banon is a small soft goat cheese from the area around Banon in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Wikipedia documents the cheese as known since the thirteenth century and records its AOC status as granted in 2003 — the first AOC of the Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur region. The defining feature is the wrapping in dried brown chestnut leaves, often soaked in Marc de Provence, tied with raffia. The AOC permits raw goat milk or a blend of goat and cow.

A Banon is a small disc wrapped like a parcel in brown chestnut leaves tied with raffia. Unwrapped, the cheese is soft and creamy, with a distinctive flavor blending the goat's tang with a vegetal, earthy, almost blue-cheese note from the leaf.

Banon's character rests on the chestnut-leaf wrapping. The leaves do three things: physically hold the soft disc together, trap moisture so the cheese ripens into a gooey core rather than drying out, and impart tannins and a vegetal, earthy flavor as the leaf microflora develop. The Marc soak adds an alcoholic aromatic dimension.

Variations

Made from raw goat milk or a goat-cow blend; the chestnut-leaf wrapping and the Marc soak are the constants.

On the Palate

Where Banon sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 12

How it's made

6 steps · 35 min

  1. 1
    15 min

    Warm goat's milk and add lactic starter; let acidify.

  2. 2
    15 min

    Add a small amount of rennet and let the curd set gently.

  3. 3
    30 min

    Ladle the curd into small disc molds and drain naturally.

  4. 4
    20 min

    Demold, salt the surfaces, and age briefly for one to two weeks.

    Watch out

    Age the bare disc only a week or two before wrapping — over-dry it now and the leaves can't ripen it back to a gooey core.

  5. 5
    15 min

    Soak dried chestnut leaves in Marc de Provence; wrap each disc and tie with raffia.

    Watch out

    Soak the chestnut leaves in Marc, then wrap each disc snug and tie — the leaves trap the moisture that ripens it gooey and lend their earthy tannin; a loose wrap dries it out.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Age further in the leaves, or release at once.

Techniques

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