Shebolili sulguni is the smoked variant of Megrelian sulguni, the stretched brined cheese that originates in Samegrelo and is a registered Geographical Indication product. The word shebolili means smoked. Traditionally the cheese is hung on a high beam over a smoldering fire and smoked until it develops a golden-brown skin and a deep smoky aroma. The smoked version is a named Megrelian specialty, recognised by TasteAtlas among the world's best cheeses.
Firm, slightly rubbery cheese with a smoky rind and a clean, tangy interior, the smoke flavour running through the whole piece. Eaten sliced with bread or grilled until it stretches, it is savoury, smoky and moreish.
Fresh sulguni is made by heating curd in whey until it stretches, then kneading and pulling it into shape (like mozzarella), and brining it briefly. To smoke it, the finished cheese is hung in a smoky chamber or over a smoldering wood fire (cherry or oak) for 12 to 24 hours. The slow, cool smoke penetrates the cheese without cooking it, setting the brown rind and infusing the interior. The smoking must be gentle or the cheese melts and loses its shape.
Variations
A stronger smoke uses cherry wood. Some makers smoke for 48 hours for a deeper flavour.
On the Palate
Where Shebolili Sulguni sits in the Georgian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 10How it's made
6 steps · 12 hours
- 125 min
Make fresh sulguni: heat 5 litres cow's milk with rennet until it curdles; cut the curd, then heat it in its whey to 70C until it stretches.
Watch outHeat the curd in its whey to about seventy degrees until it stretches like taffy — too cool it won't pull, too hot it toughens; the stretch is the signal it's ready.
- 220 min
Pull and knead the hot curd into round discs, brine them in salted water for 2 hours, then drain.
- 38 min
Light a smoldering fire of cherry or oak wood and let it burn down to smoke, not flame.
- 45 min
Hang the sulguni discs on a stick or beam over the smoke, about 1 metre above.
- 520 min
Smoke for 12-24 hours, turning once, until the surface is golden-brown and the aroma is deep.
Watch outKeep the smoke cool and gentle over twelve-plus hours — done when the surface is golden-brown; too hot and the cheese melts and slumps out of shape.
- 65 min
Rest the cheese 1 day wrapped, then slice or grill to serve.
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