Cod tongues and cheeks are an iconic Newfoundland delicacy, born of the province's historic cod fishery and a nose-to-tail frugality. The tongues are gelatinous, fibrous pieces cut from the fish's throat, and the cheeks are the tender muscle behind the gills; together they are considered the choicest bits of the cod. Pan-fried in butter or with scrunchions, the texture is often compared to oyster or scallop. The dish is tied to the inshore cod industry and is a uniquely Newfie culinary tradition.
Crisp golden edges giving way to a gelatinous, almost oyster-like interior, the pork fat or butter carrying it, a squeeze of lemon cutting the richness. Eaten in a few bites, it is rich, briny and unlike any other fish.
The tongues and cheeks are soaked briefly in salted water to firm them, drained, then dredged lightly in seasoned flour. They are pan-fried in butter or in the rendered fat of scrunchions, hot enough to crisp the flour but not so hot that the gelatinous interior toughens. The tongues cook faster than the cheeks, so they are added slightly later. The flour crust is the only seasoning besides salt, pepper and the fat.
Variations
A modern version serves them with a bacon-onion gravy. Some cooks add a squeeze of lemon at the end.
On the Palate
Where Cod Tongues and Cheeks sits in the Canadian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
6 steps · 20 min
- 15 min
Soak 500g cod tongues and cheeks in cold salted water 15 minutes; drain and pat dry.
Watch outThe brief salt-water soak firms the pieces up — skip it and the gelatinous tongues go slack and won't crisp cleanly.
- 24 min
Season 50g flour with 1 tsp salt and black pepper; dredge the tongues and cheeks lightly.
- 36 min
Render 100g diced salt pork in a pan until crisp; keep the fat, reserve the scrunchions.
- 42 min
Add 50g butter to the pork fat and heat until foaming.
- 56 min
Fry the tongues and cheeks over medium-high heat, 3 minutes per side, until deep golden; the tongues go in 1 minute after the cheeks.
Watch outFry hot enough to crisp the flour but not so hot the gelatinous middle toughens — deep golden crust, tongues in a minute after the cheeks.
- 62 min
Drain briefly, serve hot with the reserved scrunchions and lemon wedges.
