French

Bleu de Gex

Franc-Comtois·Hard·50 min

A mild blue cheese of the Haut-Jura, made from raw cow's milk in flat wheels and aged only a few weeks. Softer, creamier, and less salty than Roquefort, with delicate blue-green veining threaded through a pale paste; its traditions trace to the medieval monks of the Saint-Claude abbey.

Bleu de Gex, also called Bleu de Haut-Jura or Bleu de Septmoncel, is a blue cheese of the Haut-Jura in Franche-Comte. Its traditions are traced to the Saint-Claude region and, by long tradition, to the medieval monks of the Saint-Claude abbey. It received its Appellation d'Origine Controlee in 1977; the designation restricts production to the Haut-Jura zone and requires raw cow's milk.

A wedge of Bleu de Gex is pale ivory with delicate blue-green veins threading through, fewer and softer than the dense marbling of Roquefort. The paste is creamy and yielding; the flavor is gentle — a quiet, mushroomy earthiness with a mild peppery warmth, far less sharp than southern blues. The thin natural rind is sometimes slightly moist. A regional specialty often served with boiled potatoes.

Bleu de Gex is a blue cheese made by introducing the mold Penicillium roqueforti into raw cow's milk. After the curd is cut, it is NOT pressed, so the wheel retains open channels; the cheese is then pierced with needles — the piquage — to open air pathways. Oxygen entering through these channels allows the blue mold to grow internally, producing the characteristic veining. P. roqueforti secretes proteases and lipases that break down proteins and fats; this enzymatic activity is what softens the paste and produces the peppery, earthy flavor. The short affinage of roughly three weeks keeps the flavor mild and the texture creamy.

Variations

Bleu de Gex is sometimes called Bleu de Septmoncel after another local name; the Haut-Jura terroir and the raw-cow's-milk construction remain the constants.

On the Palate

Where Bleu de Gex sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 20

How it's made

6 steps · 50 min

  1. 1
    40 min

    Collect raw cow's milk from Jura pastures; warm and add starter, Penicillium roqueforti culture, and rennet.

  2. 2
    40 min

    Cut the curd and ladle it gently into molds without pressing, preserving the air channels.

    Watch out

    Ladle the curd gently into molds without pressing — those open channels are what let air in later for the blue mold to spread.

  3. 3
    30 min

    Drain, salt, and age briefly in cool humid cellars.

  4. 4
    15 min

    After a few days, pierce the wheels with needles to open air pathways for the blue mold.

    Watch out

    Pierce the wheels with needles to open air pathways — no oxygen down those channels and the blue mold can't grow the veins.

  5. 5
    30 min

    Age roughly three weeks, until the veining is delicate and the paste is creamy.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Release as a young, mild blue.

Techniques

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