Dried marrowfat peas soaked then simmered with a little mint until they collapse into a thick, savoury green mush. The classic Northern English accompaniment to fish and chips, pies and faggots.
A working-class staple of Northern England and the Midlands since the 19th century, made from naturally field-dried marrowfat peas. 'Mushy peas'.
Thick, soft and a little grainy, with the sweet earthy flavour of peas lifted by a cool whisper of mint. It is plain, comforting stodge that soaks up vinegar and gravy and cuts through anything fried.
Soaking with bicarbonate of soda raises the pH and softens the peas' skins, so prolonged simmering breaks down their starches and they collapse into a smooth, thick mush.
Variations
With mint sauce stirred through, Yorkshire 'pea wet', as a base for pie-and-peas, chip-shop style with food colouring, vegan without butter
On the Palate
Where Mushy Peas sits in the British flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
8 steps · 5 min
- 1720 min
Soak the dried marrowfat peas in plenty of cold water with bicarbonate of soda overnight.
Watch outDon't skip the overnight soak with bicarb — it softens the skins so the peas can actually collapse later.
- 23 min
Drain and rinse the swollen peas thoroughly.
- 33 min
Put the peas in a pan with fresh water and bring to the boil.
- 42 min
Skim off any foam, then reduce to a gentle simmer.
- 525 min
Cook, stirring now and then, until the peas break down into a thick puree.
Watch outStir now and then and cook until the peas break down into a thick puree — thin and pea-shaped means keep going.
- 62 min
Stir in a knob of butter and a little chopped mint.
- 73 min
Season well with salt and pepper, mashing any whole peas that remain.
Watch outMash any stubborn whole peas as you season — you want a smooth mush, not a lumpy soup.
- 81 min
Serve hot alongside fish and chips or a pie.
