Argentinian

Helado de Vino

Andean Argentinian·Medium·20 min

Wine ice cream from the northwestern wine region, made with Torrontés or Malbec. A specialty of Salta and Cafayate, where the vineyards meet the high-altitude desert.

Helado de vino is a specialty of Argentina's northwestern wine region, particularly Salta and Cafayate, where the high-altitude vineyards produce Torrontés and Malbec wines. The ice cream is made by reducing wine into a concentrated syrup, then folding it into a cream or milk base and churning. The Torrontés version is floral and aromatic, the Malbec version deep purple and berry-like. It is served in heladerías (ice cream shops) throughout the wine region, a sweet way to taste the local terroir, and the wine gives the ice cream a sophisticated, slightly alcoholic flavour that distinguishes it from fruit ice creams. Cafayate, surrounded by vineyards at 1,700 metres, is the heart of the tradition.

A pale gold or deep purple ice cream, intensely flavoured with wine, floral or berry-like, creamy with a faint alcoholic warmth. Each scoop tastes like the vineyard it came from, sophisticated and refreshing.

The technique reduces wine into a concentrated syrup before churning. Wine (Torrontés for white, Malbec for red) is simmered in a pan until reduced by half, concentrating its sugars and flavours while evaporating most of the alcohol. The reduced wine is cooled and folded into a custard or cream base (cream, milk, sugar, egg yolks), then churned in an ice cream machine. The wine gives the ice cream its colour, aroma and a complex flavour, while the reduction prevents the ice cream from being too liquid (wine's alcohol would prevent proper freezing if not reduced). The result is a creamy, intensely wine-flavoured ice cream, unlike any fruit version.

Variations

Some add grape must for extra sweetness. A port-style version uses fortified wine.

On the Palate

Where Helado de Vino sits in the Argentinian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 6

How it's made

5 steps · 20 min

  1. 1
    5 min

    Pour 300ml Torrontés or Malbec wine into a pan; simmer until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Cool.

    Watch out

    Reduce the wine by half to a syrup before it goes in the base — this concentrates the flavor and, crucially, boils off alcohol that would otherwise stop the ice cream freezing firm.

  2. 2
    5 min

    Make the base: heat 300ml cream and 200ml milk with 100g sugar until dissolved.

  3. 3
    6 min

    Whisk 4 egg yolks; pour the warm cream over them, whisking; return to the pan and cook gently until thickened.

  4. 4
    4 min

    Cool, then stir in the reduced wine.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Churn in an ice cream machine 25 minutes; freeze 4 hours until firm.

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