Russian

Tyuletka

Northern Russian·Hard·20 min

Salt-cured veal, a northern Russian delicacy from the Pomor coast. Thinly sliced and eaten on dark bread with butter and mustard, it is one of the oldest cured meats of the Russian north.

Tyuletka is a salt-cured veal of the Russian north, traditionally made by the Pomor communities along the White Sea coast. The cold northern climate, with its long freezing winters, made natural curing practical, and the Pomors developed a tradition of salting veal for winter storage that predates the Russian state. The veal is salted heavily with coarse salt and saltpetre, pressed under a weight for several days, then hung in a cold, dry place to cure for weeks or months. The result is a firm, sliceable, intensely savoury cured meat with a delicate veal flavour, eaten thinly sliced on dark bread with butter and mustard. It is one of the rarer Russian cured meats, less known outside the northern regions, but it is the northern equivalent of the Caucasian basturma or the Italian bresaola.

Firm, dry, thinly sliced cured veal with a delicate, slightly sweet meat flavour and a deep saltiness. Eaten on a slice of dark rye bread with cold butter and sharp mustard, it is a northern Russian delicacy of great subtlety.

The technique is a dry salt cure followed by a long hang. A leg or loin of veal is rubbed heavily with a mixture of coarse salt and a small amount of saltpetre (or curing salt), packed in more salt, and weighted down in a cold place for 5 to 7 days. The salt draws moisture and preserves the meat, the saltpetre fixes the pink colour. After the initial cure, the meat is rinsed, dried, wrapped in cloth, and hung in a cold (2 to 5 degrees C), dry, ventilated place for 3 to 6 weeks, during which it loses moisture, firms up, and develops its flavour. The long hang concentrates the flavour and creates the firm, sliceable texture. Thinly sliced and eaten cold, the fat and lean alternating.

Variations

Some smoke lightly after curing. A version with juniper is northern.

On the Palate

Where Tyuletka sits in the Russian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 10

How it's made

5 steps · 20 min

  1. 1
    5 min

    Rub 1.5kg veal leg with 200g coarse salt and 1 tsp curing salt; pack in more salt.

    Watch out

    Rub the salt in heavily and pack more around it — the cure only works if the salt fully draws the moisture out.

  2. 2
    6 min

    Weight down with a board and heavy cans; refrigerate 5 to 7 days, turning daily.

  3. 3
    4 min

    Rinse the salt off; pat the meat dry; wrap in cheesecloth.

  4. 4
    6 min

    Hang in a cold (2 to 5 degrees C), dry, ventilated place for 3 to 6 weeks until firm and dry.

    Watch out

    Hang it cold and airy until it firms up and dries right through — a warm or stuffy spot spoils the meat before it ever cures.

  5. 5
    4 min

    Thinly slice; serve on dark bread with butter and mustard.

Techniques

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