Colombian

Pusandao

Pacific Colombian·Hard·45 min

The grand festive stew of the Pacific coast: salt-cured beef, hen and river fish simmered together in coconut milk with green plantain and yuca, scented with backyard azotea herbs. Served over arroz clavado.

Pusandao is called the grand sancocho of the Colombian Pacific. It is a festive stew from Buenaventura and the southern Pacific coast, defined by its triple protein of salt-cured beef (carne serrana), hen and fish, all cooked in a base of coconut milk with green plantain and yuca. The dish is inseparable from the azotea herb gardens of Afro-Pacific households, and is served at family gatherings and patron saint festivals over arroz clavado.

A thick, cloudy, faintly sweet coconut broth that carries the deep savouriness of three meats at once, the green plantain giving body, the hen falling apart in shreds, the fish adding a clean river note. The azotea herbs leave a green, almost medicinal finish.

Each protein is handled separately and in sequence. The salt-cured beef, which is fibrous and dense, goes in first to release its brine into the broth. The hen follows, giving fat and gelatine for body. The fish is added last so it does not disintegrate. Coconut milk is the primary liquid and azotea herbs (culantro cimarrón, purple basil, poleo) are tied and dropped in whole, removed before serving.

Variations

Some cooks add a fourth protein, smoked pork rib. On the Nariño coast the herbs shift to pipilongo, a native long pepper.

On the Palate

Where Pusandao sits in the Colombian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 8

How it's made

6 steps · 45 min

  1. 1
    5 min

    Soak 300g salt-cured beef in water for 2 hours to remove excess salt, then cut into chunks.

    Watch out

    Soak the salt-cured beef long enough to draw out the harsh salt, but keep some — it seasons the whole broth as it simmers first.

  2. 2
    18 min

    In a large pot, cover the beef with 500ml coconut milk and 1 litre water; bring to a boil and simmer 45 minutes.

  3. 3
    16 min

    Add 1 jointed hen (about 1.2kg), 2 chopped green plantains, 300g peeled yuca and a tied bundle of azotea herbs; simmer 40 minutes.

  4. 4
    15 min

    Add 500g river fish (bocachico or bagre) in large pieces and simmer 15 minutes more, without stirring, so the fish keeps its shape.

    Watch out

    Once the fish goes in, simmer fifteen minutes and never stir — one stir and the pieces break apart.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Remove the herb bundle, adjust salt, and let the stew rest 10 minutes off the heat.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Serve in deep bowls over arroz clavado.

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