Where it comes from
Ftira, the flattish ring-shaped Maltese sourdough, was inscribed on the UNESCO list of intangible heritage in 2020. Filled with kunserva, tuna, capers, and olives it becomes ħobż biż-żejt, 'bread with oil', the national snack.
On the plate
Bite into a dressed ftira and the crust crackles before the chewy, open sourdough crumb soaked at the cut face with sweet kunserva and grassy olive oil. Bite: the tomato paste is concentrated and sweet-savory, the tuna rich, the capers and olives sharp and briny, the raw onion crunchy. Rustic and generous, dripping a little oil — the taste of a Maltese summer lunch by the sea.
How it works
The sourdough's open, chewy crumb and sturdy crust stand up to a wet dressing without going soggy. Smearing concentrated tomato paste (rather than fresh tomato alone) packs sweet-savory umami into the bread; the oil carries flavor and softens the crumb at the cut face while capers and olives add briny contrast.
Variations
Gozo-style ftira baked with potato and topping on top. With anchovy instead of tuna. With ġbejna (Maltese cheeselet). With broad-bean paste (bigilla). Pure ħobż biż-żejt (oil and kunserva only). With hard-boiled egg.
On the Palate
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓35 min active · 115 min waiting
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓- 112 min
Mix 500 g flour, 320 ml water, 100 g active sourdough, and 1.5 tsp salt into a dough; knead.
- 295 min
Rise 90 min until doubled; shape into a flat ring with a hole in the center.
- 330 min
Prove 30 min, then bake at 230°C for 25 min until crusty and hollow-sounding.
- 44 min
Cool, then split a wedge horizontally.
- 53 min
Spread both cut sides generously with tomato paste (kunserva).
- 65 min
Pile on flaked tuna, capers, sliced olives, thin onion, and a little fresh tomato.
- 72 min
Drizzle generously with olive oil and crack over pepper.
- 82 min
Close and press lightly; serve as the everyday ħobż biż-żejt.
