Panettone
Italian

Panettone

Lombard·Hard·40 min

Milan's towering domed Christmas sweet bread, studded with raisins and candied citrus. Its airy, feathery crumb comes from days of slow proofing, and it is the centerpiece of the Italian festive table.

Panettone is the tall, domed Christmas bread of Milan, its name from the Milanese panattón, 'big bread'. Studded with candied fruit and raised over days of slow fermentation, it is the festive loaf that conquered Italian Christmas.

Impossibly light and feathery, it pulls apart in soft buttery shreds scented with orange and vanilla. Sweet but never heavy, with little bursts of chewy candied fruit throughout.

Long, slow fermentation develops an extensible gluten network that traps gas for the airy crumb, while hanging it upside down keeps the tall structure from collapsing as it cools.

Variations

With chocolate chips instead of fruit, plain (senza canditi), filled with cream or mascarpone, pandoro as a Veronese cousin

On the Palate

Where Panettone sits in the Italian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 10

How it's made

8 steps · 40 min

  1. 1
    120 min

    Build a strong active leaven and let it ripen.

  2. 2
    15 min

    Mix flour, sugar, egg yolks, butter and the leaven into a dough.

  3. 3
    20 min

    Knead intensively until smooth, elastic and glossy.

    Watch out

    Knead until the dough turns smooth, stretchy and glossy and pulls into a thin windowpane without tearing — that gluten is what traps the gas for the airy crumb.

  4. 4
    480 min

    Let the dough rise slowly for many hours until tripled.

    Watch out

    Give it a long, slow rise until it's tripled and jiggly-light — rush this and the crumb comes out tight and heavy instead of cloud-soft.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Fold in raisins and candied citrus peel.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Shape into a ball and place in a tall paper mold.

  7. 7
    420 min

    Proof again until risen above the rim, then bake until deep gold.

  8. 8
    15 min

    Skewer the base and hang the loaf upside down to cool.

    Watch out

    Skewer the base and hang it fully upside down the moment it's out of the oven — the tall, soft crumb collapses under its own weight if it cools sitting up.

Techniques

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