A whisker-thin, oil-free wheat flatbread cooked in seconds on a dry iron griddle — Xuzhou's everyday staple and a listed Xuzhou city-level intangible cultural heritage, eaten plain, folded around sautéed vegetables, or layered with crispy sanzi.
Xuzhou tradition holds that the flatbread traces to the Chu-Han wars (around 206 BCE), when soldiers baked thin flour rounds on heated military helmets in the field. Whether or not that legend is literal, the bread was firmly embedded in local life by the Qing dynasty: the poet Fang Wen, visiting Xuzhou during the Shunzhi reign, recorded it in verse in his travel poem "Beilu Xing" — "white flour mixed with water, baked into laomo; yellow millet and mixed beans, cooked into porridge." The technique — pure wheat flour and water, no oil, cooked on a dry iron griddle — has survived unchanged for generations. Today it is listed as a Xuzhou city-level intangible cultural heritage and is called one of the "three Xuzhou classics" alongside spicy soup and clay-pot chicken.
Soft and pliant as a cloth napkin, with a gentle wheaten sweetness and a faint char from the iron — it asks to be rolled around something: sautéed leeks, braised pork, or a fistful of shattered sanzi.
Wheat flour and cold water produce a gluten-rich dough; the 30-minute rest lets proteins and starches hydrate fully, relaxing tension so the sheet can be rolled to near-translucence without tearing. On the dry iron griddle at around 200°C, surface starches gelatinize instantly on contact, forming a thin skin; rapid flipping every 5–8 seconds prevents any side from fully dehydrating, so the finished flatbread retains enough internal moisture to remain pliable rather than crisp. The complete absence of oil means the characteristic chew comes purely from the gluten network set by dry heat.
Variations
In winter, warm water is used instead of cold to make a slightly softer dough. Some families add a pinch of salt. The most common serving format is the laomo roll (烙馍卷), filled with stir-fried garlic chives, braised pork, or local sanzi fried dough sticks. A thicker variant called "thick laomo" (厚烙馍) baked on a lower flame serves as a heartier staple in some households.
On the Palate
Where Laomo Thin Flatbread sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
7 steps · 32 min active + 30 min waiting
- 110 min
Measure wheat flour into a bowl; gradually add cold water while stirring, then knead to a smooth, non-sticky dough; it should pass the windowpane test when fully developed.
Watch outKnead until the dough passes the windowpane test — a well-developed gluten net is what lets you roll it to near see-through.
- 230 min
Cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes to relax the gluten fully.
- 35 min
Divide the dough into portions of about 20 g each and roll each into a smooth ball.
- 410 min
Dust the work surface lightly; roll each ball into a round disc roughly 30 cm in diameter and about 1 mm thick — it should be translucent enough to see one's hand through it.
- 52 min
Heat a dry iron griddle (鏊子) over high heat until a drop of water sizzles away immediately; no oil is added at any stage.
- 63 min
Place a disc on the griddle; flip every 5 to 8 seconds as bubbles form, repeating 4 to 6 times per side, until small golden spots appear on both faces.
Watch outFlip every 5–8 seconds as bubbles rise, keeping any one side from fully drying — that's what leaves it pliable instead of crisp.
- 72 min
Transfer to a cloth-lined basket and stack while warm so residual steam keeps the flatbreads pliable; serve immediately with sautéed vegetables, fried sanzi, or braised meats as fillings.
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