Pinnekjøtt — literally 'stick meat' — is the Christmas dish of western Norway. Lamb ribs are heavily salted, in the west often lightly smoked, and air-dried for six to eight weeks until firm. Before serving, they're soaked for a day or more (changing the water) to draw out the salt and rehydrate the meat, then steamed for about three hours over a bed of peeled birch sticks — the sticks hold the meat above the water and lend a faint woody aroma. Served falling off the bone with mashed swede or kohlrabi, boiled potatoes, sausage, and the cooking juices. Alongside ribbe (crisp-skinned pork belly) it is one of Norway's two great Christmas dinners, and on the west coast it is the main event.
Salt-dried lamb ribs that have been soaked and steamed back to tender, fragrant of birch wood and ocean salt. The flavor concentrates in the surface bark; the inside stays soft and juicy.
The peeled birch sticks at the bottom of the pot do two jobs: they hold the ribs above the water so the meat cooks in steam rather than boiling (which would dry it out or fall it apart), and the warmed wood lends a faint resinous aroma to the rising steam. Birch is the traditional choice, giving a gentle, restrained scent rather than the heavier note of direct wood-smoke.
Variations
Voss-region pinnekjøtt smokes the lamb before drying; eastern Hardanger keeps it salt-only — smoke versus pure salt, the choice splits the country.
On the Palate
Where Pinnekjøtt sits in the Norwegian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
5 steps · 2 days 2 hours 24 min active + 21 hours 36 min waiting
- 1864 min
Buy 1.5kg ready-cured pinnekjøtt from a Norwegian butcher. Soak in cold water for 24-30 hours, changing water every 8 hours.
Watch outTaste a sliver of the soaked rib before cooking — it should be pleasantly savory, not harshly salty; if still fierce, soak and change water longer.
- 2864 min
Drain. In a tall heavy pot, lay 6 peeled birch sticks (or trimmed wooden chopsticks) on the bottom as a grate. Add 500ml water.
Watch outThe sticks must hold the ribs clear of the water — meat touching the water boils and dries out instead of steaming tender.
- 3864 min
Lay the lamb ribs on top of the sticks. Bring water to a boil; cover, reduce to low. Steam 3 hours, topping up water as needed.
Watch outKeep it at a bare steam, lid on, and top up water before it runs dry — a hard boil toughens the ribs; a dry pot scorches them.
- 4864 min
Meanwhile, boil 500g peeled swede (rutabaga) until tender; mash with 30g butter, salt, pepper, and a little broth from the pot.
- 5864 min
Plate the ribs (they should be tender enough to pull apart). Serve with swede mash, boiled potatoes, mustard, and a shot of aquavit.
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