
Barbagiuan (Barbajuan) is the national dish of Monaco, eaten especially on National Day (19 November). It is shared with old Nice and western Liguria, where a pumpkin-filled winter variant is called barbagiuai.
Bite a barbagiuan and the fried pastry shatters and crackles into a soft, green, creamy filling of chard and ricotta. Bite: the shell is crisp and faintly oily, the filling earthy from the chard, rich and milky from the ricotta, savory with Parmesan and nutmeg. A few bites of green-and-cheese comfort with a crisp shell — Monaco's festive little parcel.
Blanching and squeezing the chard removes water so the filling stays firm and the pastry crisps rather than steams. Ricotta and a little rice bind the greens into a sliceable filling; sealing the edges keeps oil out during frying, so the shell blisters crisp while the filling merely heats through.
Variations
Pumpkin-filled winter version (barbagiuai). Baked instead of fried. With spinach instead of chard. With a leek-heavy filling. With pine nuts and raisins. Tiny cocktail size.
On the Palate
Where Barbagiuan sits in the Monégasque flavor cloud
Blanch and wring the chard bone-dry before mixing — any water left in the greens leaks out in the fryer, steams the pastry from inside, and leaves it pale and soft instead of blistered-crisp.
Ingredients
Serves 6How it's made
8 steps · 50 min active + 30 min waiting
- 135 min
Make a pastry from 300 g flour, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 egg, and water; knead and rest 30 min.
- 28 min
Blanch 400 g Swiss chard leaves; squeeze dry and chop finely.
Watch outAfter squeezing, the chopped chard should feel almost dry and fluffy, not clumped and wet.
- 38 min
Mix the chard with 200 g ricotta, 60 g cooked rice, 50 g grated Parmesan, 1 egg, 1 chopped leek, and nutmeg.
- 48 min
Roll the pastry very thin and cut into 8-cm squares.
- 512 min
Place a spoon of filling on each square; fold into a triangle or rectangle and crimp the edges sealed.
- 64 min
Heat oil to 175°C.
Watch outTest one parcel first: the oil should sizzle briskly the moment it goes in — too quiet means it's not hot enough.
- 74 min
Fry the barbagiuan 3-4 min, turning, until blistered and deep golden.
Watch outPull them when the shell is blistered and deep golden all over, turning once for even colour.
- 82 min
Drain and serve hot as a starter or appetizer.





