Hünkar Beğendi
“An iconic Ottoman-palace dish: tender braised lamb in a tomato sauce ladled over a silky purée of smoked eggplant enriched with béchamel and cheese. The pairing of rustic meat stew and refined creamy purée defines old Istanbul fine dining.”
Where it comes from
A signature dish of Ottoman court cuisine, popularly said to have been created for Empress Eugénie's 19th-century visit to the Sultan; the name means 'the sultan liked it'.
On the plate
The first forkful is pure contrast: smoky, creamy eggplant melting against deeply savoury lamb. The béchamel and cheese turn the purée luxurious without hiding the charred edge of the eggplant, while the tomato-rich meat sauce soaks in around it.
How it works
Charring the eggplant over open flame drives off moisture and creates smoky phenols, while the béchamel's roux emulsifies the watery flesh into a stable, glossy purée. Long braising breaks down lamb collagen into gelatin for a tender, sauce-coating texture.
Variations
Chicken instead of lamb; veal cubes; some add nutmeg to the béchamel; meatless version of just beğendi purée as a side.
On the Palate
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓45 min active · 75 min waiting
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓- 110 min
Cut lamb shoulder into cubes and brown well in butter with chopped onion.
- 260 min
Add tomato paste, diced tomato, salt and pepper; cover and braise with a little water until the lamb is fork-tender.
- 315 min
Char whole eggplants directly over a flame until the skins blister and the flesh collapses.
- 48 min
Scoop out the smoky flesh, mash with lemon juice to keep it pale.
- 58 min
Make a roux with butter and flour, whisk in warm milk to a smooth béchamel.
- 612 min
Fold the eggplant flesh into the béchamel with grated kashkaval cheese and salt; cook until thick and glossy.
- 74 min
Spoon the warm eggplant purée onto plates and hollow the centre.
- 83 min
Pile the braised lamb and its sauce into the well and serve hot.
