Testi Kebabı
Turkish

Testi Kebabı

Medium·30 min

A Cappadocian speciality of lamb or beef and vegetables sealed inside a clay jug and slow-cooked over embers until meltingly tender. At the table the sealed pot is dramatically cracked open to release its steam.

A traditional kebab of the Cappadocia region, especially Avanos with its pottery heritage; the dish is named after the testi (clay jug) it cooks in (Turkish Foodie, Will Fly for Food).

Cracking the jug releases a cloud of fragrant steam, and inside the meat falls apart at the touch of a fork. Sealed cooking concentrates everything into a deep, buttery juice tasting of tomato, sweet pepper and slow-roasted lamb.

The sealed clay vessel traps steam and builds gentle pressure, so the meat braises in its own moisture at a steady high temperature that breaks down collagen. With no evaporation, juices and fat stay inside and concentrate into an intensely flavoured sauce.

Variations

Chicken testi; with potato and carrot; mushroom version; some add a splash of wine in tourist regions.

On the Palate

Where Testi Kebabı sits in the Turkish flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 4

How it's made

8 steps · 30 min

  1. 1
    12 min

    Cut lamb or beef into chunks and combine with onion, garlic, green pepper and tomato.

  2. 2
    4 min

    Season with salt, pepper, a little tomato paste and a knob of butter.

  3. 3
    6 min

    Pack the mixture loosely into a clay jug, leaving room for steam.

    Watch out

    Pack the jug only loosely and leave headroom — steam needs room to build; cram it full and there's nowhere for the pressure to work the meat tender.

  4. 4
    4 min

    Seal the mouth of the jug tightly with a round of bread dough or foil.

    Watch out

    Seal the mouth airtight with dough or foil — any gap and the juices steam away instead of braising the meat in its own moisture.

  5. 5
    4 min

    Stand the jug upright among glowing charcoal or in a wood oven.

  6. 6
    120 min

    Cook slowly for around two hours until the meat is fork-tender in its own juices.

    Watch out

    It's done when the meat gives with no resistance to a fork and the jug is heavy with sauce inside — the low steady heat has broken the collagen down.

  7. 7
    2 min

    At the table, crack the neck of the hot jug open with a sharp tap.

  8. 8
    4 min

    Pour the steaming stew over rice or flatbread and serve at once.

Techniques

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