A soufflé-like 'crème soufflée' first appears in François Massialot's 1691 cookbook, and the first recognizable soufflé recipe (an 'omelette soufflée') in Vincent La Chapelle's 1742 Le Cuisinier Moderne, but it was Marie-Antoine Carême, working for Paris's newly rich in the early 1800s, who tamed it. Using modern draft-heated ovens instead of fickle coal, he codified its many forms and made the savory cheese version a glittering centerpiece of haute-cuisine dining, where its precarious rise became a test of any serious cook.
The crust shatters into a fine golden shell, giving way to an interior so light it barely holds together, warm and trembling on the spoon. Nutty Gruyère and a whisper of nutmeg bloom across the tongue while the texture dissolves like savoury steam.
Whipped egg whites trap air that expands in the oven's heat, while moisture turning to steam pushes the structure upward; the egg proteins and béchamel set just enough to hold the rise before it cools and falls. Serving instantly is essential because escaping steam causes the rapid deflation.
Variations
Goat cheese soufflé, Roquefort soufflé, twice-baked soufflé set in cream, individual ramekin soufflés, spinach-and-cheese soufflé
On the Palate
Where Cheese Soufflé sits in the French flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
8 steps · 20 min
- 15 min
Butter a soufflé dish generously and dust with grated Parmesan, then chill it.
- 28 min
Melt butter, whisk in flour and cook to a pale roux, then slowly whisk in warm milk to a thick béchamel.
- 35 min
Off the heat, beat in egg yolks one at a time, then the grated Gruyère, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
- 44 min
Whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt to firm, glossy peaks.
Watch outWhip the whites just to firm, glossy peaks that hold their shape — under-whipped won't lift, but grainy over-whipped whites collapse and won't rise.
- 54 min
Fold a third of the whites into the warm base to loosen it, then gently fold in the rest.
Watch outSlacken the base with a third of the whites first, then fold the rest in gently with a few strokes — beat the air out and the soufflé stays flat.
- 63 min
Pour into the prepared dish, level the top and run a thumb around the rim to help it rise.
- 730 min
Bake in a hot oven without opening the door until puffed, golden and just set with a soft centre.
Watch outBake without ever opening the door until it's risen tall, golden, and just set with a soft wobble at the center — a draft or a jolt makes it sink.
- 81 min
Serve immediately, as the soufflé begins to deflate within minutes of leaving the oven.
Watch outRush it straight to the table — a soufflé starts sinking within a couple of minutes out of the oven.
