A Chengde griddle-fried pastry of buckwheat-wheat dough enclosing a sweet filling of white sugar, cracked walnuts, melon seeds, and candied citrus peel; also called Eight-Hook Sugar Cake, it has over five hundred years of history and was once baked by the imperial kitchens as portable provisions for visiting Mongolian princes. The low-gluten buckwheat crust shatters at the first touch, releasing caramelised sugar and toasted nut warmth in a single breath.
Nansha cake belongs to the family of Chengde pastries that emerged from the region's dual identity as a Qing imperial resort and a trade crossroads between Han agricultural heartlands and the Mongolian steppe. Local oral tradition holds that the pastry dates back more than five hundred years, predating the Qing, and that it was already established as a local specialty when the imperial court began using Chengde as its summer residence. Multiple Chengde local records note that Emperor Kangxi encountered the pastry during a hunting circuit through Pingquan (平泉), praised it effusively, and ordered it classified as a tribute food; thereafter, the imperial kitchens produced large quantities as travel provisions for Mongolian princes making the journey to Rehe. When palace demand exceeded the kitchen's capacity, local teahouses and pastry shops were contracted to supply the shortfall—this arrangement is what transformed the pastry from a palace speciality back into an accessible street food. The name 八勾糖饼 (Eight-Hook Sugar Cake) likely refers to the traditional folded-edge seal pattern used to close the dough around the filling.
A gentle press and the crust gives way with a dry, papery crack—inside, warm caramelised sugar and walnut pieces cascade out in fragments; the buckwheat in the shell adds a faint earthiness that keeps the sweetness grounded, and the candied citrus peel lifts the finish with a flash of bitter orange.
The pastry's characteristic shattering crispness comes from the interaction of buckwheat and wheat flours at the structural level. Buckwheat contains no gluten—its proteins do not form the elastic network that gives wheat dough its chew—so adding buckwheat to the dough deliberately weakens the gluten matrix, producing a short, friable crust. A ratio of roughly one part buckwheat to two parts wheat is enough to shorten the dough without making it too fragile to roll and fold. During dry-pan griddle cooking at around 180–200°C, the outer surface dehydrates rapidly and undergoes both Maillard browning and limited starch dextrinisation, locking the layers into a rigid shell. Inside, the sugar filling partially melts and caramelises—at around 160°C, sucrose hydrolyses into glucose and fructose, which brown faster and develop honey-like volatiles—while the walnut oils volatilise and diffuse into the dough layers, reinforcing the toasted aroma from outside.
Variations
Classic five-nut filling uses walnut, melon seeds, pine nuts, sesame, and candied citrus peel. Common sweet alternatives include red bean paste (澄沙馅), white sugar crystal (水晶馅), and hawthorn-berry filling (红果馅) that adds tartness. Modern Chengde bakeries produce a miniaturised version, about half the traditional diameter, sold in printed gift boxes as tourist souvenirs. Some vendors add a small amount of sesame oil to the dough for extra richness.
On the Palate
Where Nansha Sweet Filled Sesame Pastry sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
7 steps · 57 min
- 120 min
Combine wheat flour and buckwheat flour; add warm water and a pinch of salt; knead for 6 minutes into a smooth dough; cover with a damp cloth and rest 20 minutes.
Watch outKnead until the dough is smooth and springs back, then let it rest — under-rested dough tears when you roll it thin.
- 28 min
Make the filling: mix white sugar, finely chopped walnut kernels, melon seeds, and minced candied citrus peel (red and green) together; add a few drops of sesame oil and stir to combine.
- 310 min
Divide the rested dough into 8 equal pieces; roll each piece into a thin round about 12 cm in diameter.
- 48 min
Place a heaped tablespoon of filling in the centre of each round; gather the edges upward around the filling and pinch firmly to seal, forming a round packet.
Watch outPinch the gathered seam firmly shut — any gap and the melting sugar filling leaks out and scorches on the griddle.
- 53 min
Turn sealed-side down; gently flatten each packet with the palm into a disc about 1 cm thick; brush the top lightly with water and press sesame seeds onto the surface.
- 66 min
Heat a dry griddle or cast-iron pan over medium-low heat without any oil; place the discs sesame-side up and cook 5–6 minutes until the bottom turns golden with a few dark spots.
Watch outDry-griddle low and slow, no oil, until the bottom is golden with a few dark freckles — too high a flame burns the crust before the middle heats through.
- 75 min
Flip carefully and cook the sesame-seed side for another 4–5 minutes until evenly golden; remove from heat and rest 2 minutes before serving—the crust will crisp further as it cools.
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