Saudi

Khubzat al-Mallah

Northern Bedouin·Easy·20 min

Iconic desert bread baked directly on hot sand or embers, sometimes buried. A symbol of Saudi cooking heritage, torn and eaten with ghee, dates or meat.

Khubzat al-mallah is an iconic desert bread, baked directly on hot sand or embers (sometimes buried in the sand), a symbol of Saudi cooking heritage and the Bedouin desert tradition. A simple whole-wheat dough is baked on the hot sand, which gives it a distinctive char-speckled crust and a smoky, earthy flavour. It is torn and eaten with ghee, dates or meat, and is the most primal bread of the Arabian desert, made by Bedouins on the move for centuries.

Char-speckled, smoky, dense and chewy, with a crisp crust from the sand and a soft, slightly sweet crumb, a faint earthy note. Torn and dipped in ghee with dates, it is primal, smoky and the bread of the open desert.

The dough is a simple whole-wheat flour, water and salt mix, sometimes with a little sugar and fennel, kneaded and rested. The hot sand (or embers) is the oven: the sand is heated by the fire, the dough is laid directly on it (or buried), and the bread bakes in the radiant heat, developing a char-speckled crust from the sand grains. The sand must be clean and very hot, or the bread does not cook through before the bottom burns.

Variations

A sweet version adds sugar and cardamom. Some add a little yeast for a lighter bread.

On the Palate

Where Khubzat al-Mallah sits in the Saudi flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 6

How it's made

6 steps · 20 min

  1. 1
    8 min

    Mix 400g whole-wheat flour, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar and 250ml water to a firm dough; knead; rest 1 hour.

    Watch out

    Fry the onions right past golden into dark brown — that deep caramelising is what colours and flavours the whole pot of rice; stop at golden and it tastes flat.

  2. 2
    5 min

    Divide into 6 balls; flatten each into a 1cm-thick disc.

  3. 3
    8 min

    Build a fire; heat clean sand (or embers) in a wide pit until very hot.

  4. 4
    5 min

    Lay the dough discs directly on the hot sand (or embers); cover with more hot sand if burying.

    Watch out

    Cook the fish separately until just done — overcook it and it dries and falls apart; it should stay firm and moist.

  5. 5
    8 min

    Bake 4-5 minutes per side until char-speckled, cooked through and hollow-sounding when tapped.

  6. 6
    4 min

    Brush off the sand; tear and serve with ghee and dates.

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Techniques

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