A Yucatecan fish dish of whole snapper (or grouper) marinated in a recado rojo (achiote paste) with bitter orange juice, wrapped in banana leaves, and cooked over an open fire or grill. The banana leaves steam the fish while contributing subtle grassy aroma. A coastal Mayan preparation distinct from cochinita pibil — fish, not pork — and grilled rather than pit-baked.
Tikin xic (pronounced 'tee-keen sheek') is a Yucatecan coastal dish of Mayan origin. The name comes from Maya: 'tikin' meaning 'dried' or 'sun-dried' and 'xic' referring to a specific preparation. The dish evolved from the Mayan practice of grilling marinated fish wrapped in banana leaves — a technique that predates the colonial introduction of achiote (which arrived via Spanish trade). The modern combination of recado rojo (achiote paste with spices) and bitter orange is the defining Yucatecan flavor profile. The dish remains a specialty of the Yucatán coast, particularly around Celestún and Progreso.
A whole tikin xic arrives wrapped in charred banana leaves that, when opened, release a fragrant steam of achiote and citrus. The fish inside is red-orange from the recado rojo, the flesh moist and flaky, infused with the bitter orange and achiote marinade. The banana leaves have kept it juicy; a char from the grill adds smokiness. Eaten with corn tortillas and habanero salsa.
Tikin xic's flavor depends on the recado rojo marinade and the banana-leaf wrap. Recado rojo (achiote paste) contains annatto seeds whose pigment, bixin, is fat-soluble — it colors the fish red-orange and binds to its oils during marination. Bitter orange (naranja agria) provides citric acid that denatures surface proteins (a 'cooking' effect like ceviche) and tenderizes the fish. Wrapping in banana leaves creates a sealed, steam-filled pocket on the grill — the leaves insulate the fish from direct heat while their own aromatic compounds permeate the flesh. The result is moist, deeply flavored fish with no drying out.
Variations
Snapper or grouper are traditional; the dish is sometimes baked in an oven rather than grilled; some add tomatoes and onions inside the wrap.
On the Palate
Where Tikin Xic sits in the Mexican flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
6 steps · 1 hour 30 min active + 2 hours 30 min waiting
- 110 min
Clean and scale a whole snapper (or grouper); score the flesh deeply on both sides.
Watch outScore the fish deeply on both sides — the cuts let the achiote marinade drive into the flesh instead of just coating the skin.
- 25 min
Dissolve recado rojo (achiote paste) with bitter orange juice, garlic, oregano, cumin, and salt to make a marinade.
- 3180 min
Coat the fish thoroughly with the marinade, working it into the scores; marinate 2-3 hours refrigerated.
- 45 min
Lay banana leaves (softened over heat) flat; place the fish on top with sliced onion and tomato.
- 55 min
Wrap the fish securely in the leaves, tying with kitchen twine.
Watch outWrap and tie the banana leaves securely — a tight parcel traps the steam that keeps the fish moist and carries the leaf aroma in; a loose wrap dries it out.
- 645 min
Grill over medium heat 20-25 minutes per side until fish flakes; serve with corn tortillas and habanero salsa.
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