The korovai descends from ancient Slavic sun-worship, its round golden form symbolizing the sun and abundance, and its making is wrapped in ritual older than the church wedding itself. It was traditionally baked by a group of happily married women — often seven — who sang special songs as they worked, believing their good fortune would pass into the loaf and on to the newlyweds.
Soft, faintly sweet and tender like a fine brioche, with a deep golden crust that shatters lightly under the knife. Each ornamental bird and leaf is a little firmer and toastier, a crisp counterpoint to the pillowy crumb beneath.
The high proportion of eggs, butter and sugar makes an enriched dough that bakes up tender and richly colored. Reserving stiffer, less-proofed dough for the ornaments lets them hold their detailed shapes while the main loaf rises soft.
Variations
Single-tier or multi-tier stacked loaves, regional Peremyshl style, versions decorated with periwinkle wreaths, festive non-wedding holiday korovai
On the Palate
Where Korovai sits in the Ukrainian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 12How it's made
8 steps · 50 min
- 110 min
Activate yeast in warm milk with a spoon of sugar until foamy.
- 215 min
Beat eggs, sugar, softened butter and salt together, then combine with the yeast milk and flour into a soft enriched dough.
- 390 min
Knead thoroughly until smooth and elastic, then let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled.
Watch outKnead until the dough turns satin-smooth and springs back when poked — that's when the gluten is ready to rise light.
- 415 min
Reserve a portion of dough for decorations and shape the rest into a large round loaf in a wide pan.
Watch outKeep the ornament dough stiffer and barely proofed — soft over-risen dough loses its detail in the heat.
- 530 min
Roll and braid the reserved dough into wreaths, doves, leaves and rosettes, attaching them to the loaf with egg wash.
- 645 min
Let the decorated loaf proof again until puffy, then brush all over with beaten egg for shine.
- 740 min
Bake in a moderate oven until deep golden and hollow-sounding, shielding the decorations if they brown too fast.
Watch outDone when it sounds hollow tapped underneath; tent the ornaments with foil the moment they take color so they don't scorch.
- 860 min
Cool completely before displaying so the ornaments set firmly.
