Where it comes from
Shpundra is one of the oldest dishes of the Cossack and Poltava kitchen, predating the tomato's arrival and relying instead on fermented beet kvas for its signature tang and crimson color. It was a hearty cold-season dish of the Hetmanate era, when soured beet brine was a pantry staple in every Ukrainian household.
On the plate
Lush, fall-apart pork soaked in a glossy crimson sauce that hits sweet, sour and savory all at once. The beets turn silky and earthy-sweet, and the fermented kvas gives the whole dish a bright, almost wine-like tang against the rich fat.
How it works
Slow braising breaks down the collagen in fatty pork into gelatin, giving the meat its melting tenderness and the sauce its body. The acidity of beet kvas both tenderizes the meat and preserves the beets' deep red color while balancing the richness.
Variations
Pork belly or shoulder cuts, versions with added carrot, a modern tomato-and-vinegar substitute for kvas, a thicker stew-style finish
On the Palate
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓25 min active · 70 min waiting
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓- 110 min
Cut fatty pork or pork belly into generous chunks and render some of the fat in a heavy pot.
- 28 min
Brown the pork pieces on all sides in the rendered fat until richly colored.
- 37 min
Add sliced onion and cook until softened and golden.
- 45 min
Stir in peeled, diced or sliced red beetroot and a spoonful of flour to thicken.
- 55 min
Pour in beet kvas to nearly cover, season with salt, pepper, bay leaf and a little sugar.
- 660 min
Cover and braise gently over low heat until the pork is fork-tender and the beets are soft.
- 710 min
Uncover and let the sauce reduce to a thick, glossy ruby gravy.
- 85 min
Rest briefly, then serve hot with bread or boiled potatoes.
