Cherry Pie

Cherry pie descends from the fruit pies of British and northern-European baking, carried to North America by colonists; tart cherries grew well in the cooler states and the pie became a Midwestern and New England staple. Michigan, and especially the Traverse City area on Lake Michigan, became the heart of American tart-cherry growing in the early 20th century and remains the largest producer of Montmorency cherries; the city has billed itself the 'Cherry Capital' and has held a National Cherry Festival since 1925 (held under that name from 1931). The link between cherry pie and George Washington is folklore — it grew out of Parson Weems's invented 'cherry tree' anecdote about young Washington and has no documented basis in fact.

The top crust shatters into flaky shards, then gives way to a thick, jammy pool of cherries that holds its shape when sliced but slumps softly on the plate. The flavour is high-toned and sour-sweet — tart cherries keep an almost winey acidity that sweet cherries lack — with a faint almond note from the fruit's own kernels. Whole or halved cherries stay tender but distinct in the syrup. A good slice has set juices, not a watery puddle.

The filling is set with a starch — usually cornstarch or tapioca — because cherries release a great deal of thin juice; the starch granules absorb water and gelatinize as the pie bakes, turning the loose syrup into a sliceable gel that cools clear and glossy. Sour cherries are higher in acid, which keeps the colour vivid and sharpens flavour but can weaken some starches, so tapioca is favoured for a clean set. The crust's flakiness comes from solid cold butter or lard left in flat sheets within the dough: in the oven the fat melts and its water flashes to steam, prying the dough into layers. The lattice exposes more surface so juices boil off and concentrate rather than flooding the pan.