The chicken version of the Tamil-Muslim varuval dry-fry, bone-in chicken fried with roasted spices and curry leaves until dark, fragrant and coated. A more affordable companion to mutton varuval on the banana-leaf plate.
Ayam varuval is the chicken version of the Tamil-Muslim varuval dry-roast technique, a banana-leaf-rice staple at Indian-Muslim restaurants. Bone-in chicken is fried with shallots, garlic, a paste of fennel, coriander, chili, turmeric and black pepper, and curry leaves until dark, fragrant and coated in spice. It is the more affordable companion to mutton varuval, and the technique is the same: high heat, uncovered, until the spices caramelise onto the meat.
Dark, dry, intensely spiced chicken where every piece is coated in a roasted spice crust, the curry leaves crackling, a slow chili warmth. Eaten with rice, it is bold, peppery and moreish.
Unlike mutton, chicken needs no pre-cook; it cooks fast enough in the dry-fry itself. The chicken is marinated briefly in turmeric, chili and salt, then fried in oil with shallots, garlic, the ground spices and curry leaves. The pan is kept hot and uncovered, and the chicken is tossed continuously so the spices coat every piece and roast on without burning. The dish is done when the chicken is cooked through and the spices form a dry, dark crust.
Variations
A version with small potatoes cooks them with the chicken. Some cooks add a splash of coconut milk near the end.
On the Palate
Where Ayam Varuval sits in the Malaysian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6How it's made
6 steps · 30 min
- 15 min
Marinate 1 jointed chicken (about 1.2kg) with 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tbsp chili powder, 1 tsp salt and 1 tbsp vinegar for 20 minutes.
- 24 min
Heat 3 tbsp oil in a wok; splutter 1 tsp mustard seeds and a sprig of curry leaves.
- 34 min
Add 3 sliced shallots and 4 cloves minced garlic; fry 3 minutes.
- 46 min
Add 1 tbsp fennel powder, 1 tbsp coriander powder and 1 tsp black pepper; fry 1 minute, then add the marinated chicken.
Watch outBloom the ground spices in the oil a minute before the chicken goes in — that quick toast wakes up the aroma; raw powder tastes dusty.
- 512 min
Stir-fry uncovered over high heat 15-18 minutes, tossing, until the chicken is cooked and coated in a dry spice crust.
Watch outKeep the wok hot and uncovered, tossing constantly, until the spices form a dry dark crust — cover it and the chicken steams instead of roasting on.
- 64 min
Garnish with fried curry leaves and serve hot with rice.
