French

Madeleine

Lorraine·Easy·25 min

A small shell-shaped sponge cake of Commercy in Lorraine, light and buttery, with a distinctive hump from the traditional shell mold. Made famous by Marcel Proust, for whom the taste of a madeleine dipped in tea unleashed a flood of involuntary memory.

The madeleine is a small sponge cake from Commercy in Lorraine, baked in a shell-shaped mold. Its documented history reaches to the eighteenth century; the name is attributed by tradition to a servant named Madeleine Paulmier, who baked them for the Duke of Lorraine, Stanislas, in the mid-eighteenth century. It became famous through Proust's In Search of Lost Time, where a madeleine dipped in tea unleashes the narrator's flood of involuntary memory.

A madeleine is a small, golden, shell-shaped sponge, the underside ridged, the top a smooth plump hump. The crumb is fine and elastic, light yet buttery; the flavor is of brown butter and lemon zest. Eaten warm, often dipped in tea.

The batter is a genoise-style whole-egg sponge with brown butter; the batter must be rested (traditionally overnight) so that the flour hydrates, producing the characteristic hump during baking. Baked in a hot, well-buttered shell mold, the outside sets while the center continues to rise, producing the plump hump.

Variations

Flavored with lemon zest, orange-flower water, or vanilla; the shell shape, the genoise base, and the brown butter are the constants.

On the Palate

Where Madeleine sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 12

How it's made

6 steps · 25 min

  1. 1
    8 min

    Melt butter and brown it lightly; cool.

  2. 2
    10 min

    Whisk whole eggs with sugar to the ribbon stage, then fold in flour and the brown butter.

    Watch out

    Whisk the eggs and sugar to the ribbon stage — lift the whisk and the batter should fall in a slowly-dissolving ribbon; under-whipped and they bake flat with no hump.

  3. 3
    5 min

    Rest the batter, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.

    Watch out

    Rest the batter cold overnight — the chill is what gives the classic hump when the cold batter hits the hot mould.

  4. 4
    5 min

    Butter madeleine molds generously and pipe in the rested batter.

  5. 5
    12 min

    Bake in a hot oven until puffed, golden, and springy.

    Watch out

    Bake in a hot oven just until puffed, golden at the edges and springy to the touch — a moment too long and they dry out.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Unmold immediately and eat warm.

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