French

Fuseau Lorrain

Lorraine·Hard·50 min

A soft dry smoked sausage of Lorraine, shaped like a spindle — fuseau — produced since the seventeenth century. Ground pork with shallots and red wine, cold-smoked and dried; a charcuterie staple of the region, sliced like salami and eaten raw.

Fuseau lorrain is a soft dry smoked sausage of Lorraine, produced since the seventeenth century. The name comes from its elongated, spindle-like shape. A defending and management organization — an — exists for the product, with a pending application for a Protected Geographical Indication. The sausage is made of ground pork — lean shoulder and back fat — with shallots and red wine, seasoned with pepper and spices, stuffed, dried, and cold-smoked. It is described as a soft, dry, smoked sausage, ready to eat sliced like salami.

A slice of fuseau lorrain shows a coarse, distinct-pieced farce — the lean pork and fat clearly visible — stained reddish by the wine, the casing brown and dry from smoking. The texture is firm but yielding; the flavor is smoky and porky, with a savory depth from the wine and shallots, and a faint sweetness. Eaten sliced thin as charcuterie, with bread and a glass of local wine.

Fuseau lorrain rests on curing, drying, and cold smoking. Ground pork — lean shoulder and back fat — is mixed with shallots and red wine, seasoned, and stuffed into a natural casing; the shallots and wine contribute both flavor and a mild acidity that helps preserve the sausage. The curing salt — containing nitrite — fixes the meat's pink color and inhibits Clostridium botulinum; the drying lowers the water activity to a level where spoilage organisms cannot grow, giving the sausage its shelf stability while keeping a soft texture (drier than a fresh sausage, less dry than a hard salami). The cold smoking deposits phenolic and carbonyl aromatic compounds from wood smoke on the surface — antimicrobial and antioxidant as well as flavorful — and gives the casing its brown, dry appearance. The spindle shape maximizes surface-area-to-volume for uniform drying and smoke penetration.

Variations

Recipes vary by charcutier in the spice blend; the pork, the shallot-and-red-wine seasoning, the cold smoking, and the spindle shape are the constants.

On the Palate

Where Fuseau Lorrain sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 10

How it's made

6 steps · 50 min

  1. 1
    15 min

    Cube lean pork shoulder and back fat; chill everything very cold.

  2. 2
    10 min

    Grind coarse; season with salt, curing salt, shallots, red wine, pepper, and spices.

    Watch out

    Keep the meat and fat very cold as you grind — warm and the fat smears instead of staying in clean grains, and the cured sausage turns greasy and pasty.

  3. 3
    15 min

    Stuff the farce into natural casings and tie into elongated spindle shapes.

  4. 4
    30 min

    Hang in a cool, dry place to cure and dry for several days.

    Watch out

    Hang it to cure and dry several days — the drying lowers the moisture until spoilage bugs can't grow; that slow water loss is what makes it safe to eat raw.

  5. 5
    30 min

    Cold-smoke over wood for a day or more.

  6. 6
    15 min

    Continue drying to the desired texture; slice thin and serve raw as charcuterie.

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