Fuseau lorrain is a soft dry smoked sausage of Lorraine, produced since the seventeenth century. The name comes from its elongated, spindle-like shape. A defending and management organization — an — exists for the product, with a pending application for a Protected Geographical Indication. The sausage is made of ground pork — lean shoulder and back fat — with shallots and red wine, seasoned with pepper and spices, stuffed, dried, and cold-smoked. It is described as a soft, dry, smoked sausage, ready to eat sliced like salami.
A slice of fuseau lorrain shows a coarse, distinct-pieced farce — the lean pork and fat clearly visible — stained reddish by the wine, the casing brown and dry from smoking. The texture is firm but yielding; the flavor is smoky and porky, with a savory depth from the wine and shallots, and a faint sweetness. Eaten sliced thin as charcuterie, with bread and a glass of local wine.
Fuseau lorrain rests on curing, drying, and cold smoking. Ground pork — lean shoulder and back fat — is mixed with shallots and red wine, seasoned, and stuffed into a natural casing; the shallots and wine contribute both flavor and a mild acidity that helps preserve the sausage. The curing salt — containing nitrite — fixes the meat's pink color and inhibits Clostridium botulinum; the drying lowers the water activity to a level where spoilage organisms cannot grow, giving the sausage its shelf stability while keeping a soft texture (drier than a fresh sausage, less dry than a hard salami). The cold smoking deposits phenolic and carbonyl aromatic compounds from wood smoke on the surface — antimicrobial and antioxidant as well as flavorful — and gives the casing its brown, dry appearance. The spindle shape maximizes surface-area-to-volume for uniform drying and smoke penetration.
Variations
Recipes vary by charcutier in the spice blend; the pork, the shallot-and-red-wine seasoning, the cold smoking, and the spindle shape are the constants.
On the Palate
Where Fuseau Lorrain sits in the French flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 10How it's made
6 steps · 50 min
- 115 min
Cube lean pork shoulder and back fat; chill everything very cold.
- 210 min
Grind coarse; season with salt, curing salt, shallots, red wine, pepper, and spices.
Watch outKeep the meat and fat very cold as you grind — warm and the fat smears instead of staying in clean grains, and the cured sausage turns greasy and pasty.
- 315 min
Stuff the farce into natural casings and tie into elongated spindle shapes.
- 430 min
Hang in a cool, dry place to cure and dry for several days.
Watch outHang it to cure and dry several days — the drying lowers the moisture until spoilage bugs can't grow; that slow water loss is what makes it safe to eat raw.
- 530 min
Cold-smoke over wood for a day or more.
- 615 min
Continue drying to the desired texture; slice thin and serve raw as charcuterie.
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