
The name first appears in print in the 1890s in New England newspaper recipe columns. Roots are likely Pennsylvania-Dutch — German immigrants brought Schneckennudeln (cinnamon-rolled spiral pastries) to Pennsylvania in the 18th century, and the cookie form developed as a quicker home alternative. The cream-of-tartar leavening predates baking powder's mass availability, marking the recipe as 19th-century. New England adopted it as a holiday and church-supper staple by the early 20th century.
Name first prints in 1890s New England newspaper recipe columns; roots are Pennsylvania-Dutch Schneckennudeln. Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate) predates baking powder's mass spread — its acid leavens, controls the crackle, and inhibits sugar crystallization.
Surface is crackled cinnamon-sugar that crunches faintly under the first bite, then yields to a soft, almost cushiony centre with a distinct yogurt-tang from the cream of tartar. Cinnamon comes through in the warm-spice register, not heavy. The texture should be slightly underdone in the middle and stay that way for two days in a tin. A snickerdoodle that's crisp through is a sugar cookie that lost its way.
Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate) is acidic; combined with baking soda it gives a controlled CO2 release that makes the cookie puff and then crack as the surface sets. It also inhibits sugar crystallisation, keeping the centre tender and chewy rather than crisp. Without it, you've got a sugar cookie. The cinnamon-sugar coating is applied before baking so it adheres to the dough as the surface dries — sprinkle after, and it falls off.
Variations
Joy of Cooking (1931) printed the canonical home version; King Arthur's Snickerdoodle is the technical benchmark; Levain Bakery's NYC tall-and-soft version pushes the underdone center; New England church-cookie-tin form keeps them flat and crackled.
On the Palate
Where Snickerdoodles sits in the American flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 5How it's made
6 steps · 20 min active + 10 min waiting
- 12 min
Heat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two sheet pans with parchment.
- 24 min
Cream 225g room-temp unsalted butter with 300g granulated sugar in a stand mixer on medium for 3 minutes until pale.
Watch outSkipping the cream stage gives flat snickerdoodles with no rise.
- 31 min
Beat in 2 large eggs, one at a time. Scrape the bowl.
- 43 min
Whisk 380g all-purpose flour, 2 tsp cream of tartar, 1 tsp baking soda, 1 tsp kosher salt in a separate bowl. Add to the butter mix on low until just combined. Cream of tartar is non-optional — it's what makes a snickerdoodle a snickerdoodle.
Watch outWithout cream of tartar you've made a sugar cookie — the tang and the crackle vanish.
- 56 min
In a small bowl, mix 50g granulated sugar with 2 tbsp ground cinnamon (Saigon or Ceylon). Roll dough into 35g balls; roll each ball in the cinnamon-sugar to coat fully.
- 611 min
Place 5cm apart on the sheets. Bake 9-11 minutes — they should be puffed, cracked across the top, edges set but centres pale and soft. Cool on the sheet 5 minutes before transferring.
Watch outIf browned all over they're overbaked — snickerdoodles should stay pale tan.
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