
Cornmeal, buttermilk, egg, baking soda, baked in a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet greased with bacon fat. No sugar.
Pre-Columbian Native American cornmeal cake (pone, ashcake) adapted by Southerners with buttermilk and pork fat in the 18th-19th centuries. Sugar-and-flour Northern cornbread is the Yankee version; the no-sugar question is the South-vs-North shibboleth still fought today.
The Southern Foodways Alliance has documented the no-sugar line as far back as 1838 cookbooks. Crackling cornbread (with rendered pork-skin bits) and hot-water cornbread (fried patties) are kin. Lodge cast-iron skillets (Tennessee, since 1896) are the standard pan; a well-seasoned hand-me-down is the marker.
Crackle-crisp brown bottom and edges from the hot skillet, tender almost-grainy crumb, savory not sweet. Eaten with collards, pinto beans, chili, or crumbled into buttermilk for a glass of cornbread-and-milk. Square cuts or wedges.
Preheating the cast-iron skillet to 230°C with bacon fat or lard before pouring batter: instant sear creates the gospel-crisp brown bottom. Buttermilk's lactic acid reacts with baking soda for lift; egg sets the crumb. No sugar, no flour in the strict Southern recipe.
Variations
Hot-water cornbread (fried patty), crackling cornbread (with cracklin's), spoon bread (custardy, eaten with a spoon), Mexican-style (jalapeño, cheddar, creamed corn), Yankee (sugar+flour), Lodge skillet round vs cornstick pan (kernel-shaped molds).
On the Palate
Where Cornbread (Southern) sits in the American flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 8How it's made
5 steps · 7 min active + 37 min waiting
- 115 min
Preheat oven to 220 °C with a 25 cm cast-iron skillet inside.
Watch outGet the skillet screaming hot in the oven first — a cold pan means no crackly bottom crust, which is the whole point.
- 22 min
Whisk 240 g cornmeal, 60 g flour, 1 tbsp baking soda, 1 tsp salt.
- 33 min
Stir in 2 eggs and 500 ml buttermilk until just combined.
- 42 min
Add 3 tbsp bacon fat to hot skillet; pour batter into sizzling fat.
Watch outThe batter should hiss and sizzle the instant it hits the fat — if it's quiet, the pan wasn't hot enough.
- 522 min
Bake 22 min until top is golden and edges pull from sides.
Watch outIt's done when the top is golden and the edges shrink and pull away from the pan — flip it out and the bottom should be deep brown.
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