A Dutch national winter icon whose first recorded recipe dates to the early 16th century; traditionally eaten on the ice during skating season, when 'koek-en-zopie' stalls selling hot food and drink sprang up along the frozen canals. The preparation of snert was inscribed on the Netherlands' inventory of intangible cultural heritage in 2018, and tradition holds that the soup must rest overnight and be reheated before it truly earns the name snert.
Velvety and intensely savory, with the peas melted into a smooth porridge. Smoke from the rookworst and a salty pork backbone give every spoonful deep, warming heft.
Long, slow simmering breaks the split peas' starch into a natural thickener while collagen from the pork hock melts into body, so no flour or cream is ever needed.
Variations
with klapstuk (a braising cut of beef from the short rib/brisket), with pig's trotter or ear, vegetarian without sausage, served with rye bread topped with katenspek (cooked-then-smoked cured pork)
On the Palate
Where Erwtensoep (Snert) Dutch sits in the Dutch flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
8 steps · 20 min
- 110 min
Rinse green split peas and soak them briefly while you prepare the meat and vegetables.
- 210 min
Add peas, a pork hock or rib, and a bay leaf to a large pot with plenty of water; bring to a boil and skim the foam.
Watch outSkim the grey foam off hard as it first comes to the boil — that scum left in muddies both the color and the clean savor of the soup.
- 390 min
Lower to a gentle simmer and cook the peas and pork for about 90 minutes until the peas dissolve.
Watch outSimmer low and gentle until the split peas collapse into a purée on their own — that dissolving starch is the only thickener; a rolling boil scorches the bottom.
- 430 min
Stir in diced celeriac, carrot, onion, leek, and potato; simmer another 30 minutes until very soft.
- 510 min
Lift out the pork, shred the meat from the bone, and return the meat to the pot.
- 615 min
Add sliced rookworst (smoked sausage) and warm it through for the final 15 minutes.
- 75 min
Season with salt and pepper and stir until the soup is thick enough to hold a spoon upright.
Watch outIt's ready when it's thick enough to stand a spoon upright — if it's still soupy, simmer on; remember it thickens more as it rests off the heat.
- 85 min
Rest off the heat, then ladle into bowls and serve with rye bread and bacon.
