From Lazio, particularly Rome, where it grew out of the city's trattorias and home kitchens. The sauce appears as 'sugo all'arrabbiata' in Ada Boni's classic 'Il Talismano della Felicità,' spread through Roman trattorias after World War II, and was cemented in the 1950s–60s by its appearances in films such as Fellini's 'Roma' and Ferreri's 'La Grande Abbuffata.'
Clean tomato sweetness gives way to a slow, building heat that warms the back of the throat. Glossy and garlicky, it is comfortingly simple yet leaves your lips tingling.
Infusing whole dried chilies in oil extracts capsaicin gradually for a rounded warmth rather than a harsh burn, while a short simmer concentrates the tomato into a clinging sauce.
Variations
With pecorino on top, with a splash of white wine, all'arrabbiata with spaghetti, double-chili extra-spicy version
On the Palate
Where Penne all'Arrabbiata sits in the Italian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
8 steps · 5 min
- 110 min
Boil the penne in well-salted water until al dente.
Watch outPull the penne a touch before it's soft — still firm to the bite; it keeps cooking when you toss it in the hot sauce.
- 23 min
Gently heat olive oil with sliced garlic and whole dried chilies.
Watch outHeat the oil low and slow with the garlic and chili — you want it just fragrant and pale gold; let the garlic brown and the whole sauce turns bitter.
- 31 min
Once fragrant, remove the chilies if you prefer milder heat.
- 41 min
Add crushed tomatoes and a pinch of salt.
- 510 min
Simmer until the sauce thickens and turns deep red.
Watch outSimmer until the sauce turns deep red and thick enough to coat a spoon — that's when the tomato has concentrated and will cling to the pasta.
- 61 min
Drain the penne, saving some pasta water.
- 72 min
Toss the pasta in the sauce, loosening with pasta water if needed.
- 81 min
Scatter with chopped parsley and serve hot.
