A thick, blistered wheat wrapper rolled around a savory filling of shredded cabbage, pork and vegetables, then deep-fried until deeply crisp. The Chinese-American egg roll is bigger and crunchier than a spring roll, usually served with duck sauce and hot mustard.
The egg roll emerged in Chinese-American restaurants in the early-to-mid 20th century, most likely in New York or San Francisco, as a heartier adaptation of southern Chinese spring rolls for American diners. The thicker, bubbly wrapper and large size are distinctly American restaurant inventions.
The shell shatters with a loud crunch, blistered and almost glassy from the fry. Inside, the cabbage is soft and juicy, sweet against the savory pork, bound by a little soy and sesame. A swipe of duck sauce adds tang and a smear of hot mustard a sharp, sinus-clearing heat.
The wheat-and-egg wrapper bubbles and sets rigid in hot oil, trapping steam from the moist filling so the shell stays hollow and crisp rather than soggy. Pre-cooking and cooling the filling keeps it from leaking and lets the roll fry evenly to a deep golden brown.
Variations
Shrimp egg rolls are common, and vegetable-only versions skip the meat entirely. Some cooks add bean sprouts, carrot or bamboo shoots; the dipping sauces vary from duck sauce and hot mustard to plum or sweet-and-sour.
On the Palate
Where Egg Roll sits in the American-Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
5 steps · 53 min active + 7 min waiting
- 15 min
Brown the ground pork in a hot wok, breaking it up, until cooked through, then push to one side.
Watch outCook the pork fully now — it won't cook more inside the roll.
- 25 min
Add shredded cabbage, carrot, soy sauce and sesame oil; stir-fry until the cabbage wilts and softens, about 4 minutes.
Watch outCook off excess liquid so the filling isn't watery.
- 320 min
Spread the filling on a tray and let it cool completely to room temperature.
Watch outHot filling makes wrappers tear and steam — cool it first.
- 415 min
Place filling on each wrapper, fold in the sides, roll tightly, and seal the edge with a dab of flour-water paste.
Watch outRoll tight and seal well or they burst in the oil.
- 58 min
Deep-fry the rolls at 350°F, turning, until deep golden and blistered, about 4 minutes, then drain on a rack.
Watch outKeep oil near 350°F — too cool and they turn greasy.
