Mannaya kasha, semolina porridge, is the quintessential Soviet childhood breakfast. Made from manka (semolina), a byproduct of wheat milling that became cheap and widely available in the Soviet era, it was served in every kindergarten, school and hospital cafeteria across the USSR. The porridge is cooked by sprinkling semolina into boiling milk and whisking constantly for 3 to 5 minutes until thick and smooth. Served with a knob of butter melting into the centre and a spoonful of jam or sugar, it was meant to be nutritious and filling. Soviet children have strong feelings about it: some love the smooth, comforting texture; others remember being forced to finish a bowl of lumpy, bland porridge. The quality depends entirely on technique: whisked constantly, it is silky; neglected, it is lumpy.
Smooth, thick, warm and creamy, with a mild wheat flavour that takes on the character of whatever is added: melting butter for richness, jam for sweetness. The texture, when well made, is silky and comforting.
The technique is all in the whisking. Milk is brought to a boil, then semolina is sprinkled in gradually, a thin stream, while whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. The porridge is cooked for just 3 to 5 minutes, no longer, as overcooking makes it gluey. The ratio is about 2 tablespoons of semolina per 250ml of milk for a medium-thick porridge. Constant whisking from the moment the semolina hits the milk is what creates the smooth texture; any pause results in lumps. A knob of butter stirred in off the heat enriches it, and jam or sugar is added to taste. The porridge thickens further on standing, so it should be slightly looser than desired when taken off the heat.
Variations
Some cook it half-water, half-milk for a lighter version. Cocoa powder makes a chocolate version for children.
On the Palate
Where Mannaya Kasha sits in the Russian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
5 steps · 5 min
- 13 min
Bring 1 litre milk to a boil in a saucepan.
- 25 min
Gradually sprinkle in 120g semolina in a thin stream, whisking constantly.
Watch outRain the semolina into boiling milk in a thin stream while whisking hard from the first grain — pause even a moment and you get lumps.
- 33 min
Cook 3 to 5 minutes, whisking, until thick and smooth.
Watch outCook only 3 to 5 minutes to thick and smooth — any longer and it turns gluey; it thickens further as it stands anyway.
- 42 min
Off the heat, stir in 50g butter and a pinch of salt.
- 52 min
Serve in bowls, each with extra butter and jam or sugar to taste.
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