Igado

Igado is an Ilocano dish whose name is generally traced to the Spanish hígado, "liver," pointing to the Spanish-colonial layer in northern Luzon's cooking. Liver and offal stews of this kind reflect the resourceful, whole-animal habits of Ilocano kitchens. It sits near other Filipino offal braises — close in taste to adobo, and often likened to the Kapampangan kilayin and to menudo, with which it shares peas and peppers.

The pork strips are tender with a clean savory edge, while the liver turns soft and slightly grainy, lending its mineral depth to the sauce. The braise tastes of soy and garlic with a clear vinegar tang sharpening the back of each bite; sweet peppers and peas add little bursts of color and freshness. It should be saucy enough to spoon generously over rice.

The order of cooking protects the liver. Pork is sauteed and braised first so it can take the long heat, while the liver — which toughens and goes chalky if overcooked — goes in near the end and only just sets. Vinegar is added and left to bubble untouched at first so its raw sharpness cooks off, and its acid both tenderizes the meat and balances the salt of the soy. Peas and peppers are folded in last to keep their snap and color.