The name Gattafin traces to 'gattafura', the medieval Genoese herb pie documented by Maestro Martino in his 15th-century Libro de arte coquinaria and later by Bartolomeo Scappi, cook to Pope Pius V, in the 16th century. Levanto's fishermen and quarry workers adapted the baked torta d'erbi into a portable fried parcel filled with prebuggiun, the wild herb medley gathered from the Riviera di Levante hillsides. The Sapori di Levanto association has registered the trademark 'Gattafin', and the dish holds P.A.T. (Prodotto Agroalimentare Tradizionale) status as code 197.
The fried shell shatters into oil-scented shards, giving way to a moist, herbaceous filling where bitter chard, the anise warmth of marjoram and two sharp aged cheeses fuse into something quietly complex.
Deep-frying at 175–180°C drives rapid Maillard browning on the thin pasta shell while steam from the moist vegetable filling puffs it from within, producing a blistered crust. Pasta-matta — an unleavened water-and-oil dough without egg — has a lower protein-to-starch ratio than egg pasta; its sparse gluten network allows surface starch to gelatinise and crisp more quickly in hot oil. Residual heat in the drained fritter finishes warming the filling without drying it.
Variations
Some recipes add ricotta to the filling for extra creaminess, or substitute beet greens for chard. Inland Ligurian versions occasionally include pine nuts or a pinch of dried chilli. Pre-blanching the greens in salted water and squeezing them completely dry reduces bitterness and prevents excess moisture from steaming the crust soft.
On the Palate
Where Gattafin sits in the Italian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
7 steps · 40 min
- 135 min
Prepare pasta-matta: combine flour, water, olive oil and a pinch of salt; knead until smooth; cover and rest 30 minutes at room temperature.
- 25 min
Blanch chard and leek in boiling salted water 2 minutes; drain, squeeze completely dry, then chop finely.
Watch outSqueeze the blanched greens bone-dry — any water left will steam inside and turn the crisp shell soggy from within.
- 35 min
Sauté the chopped greens in a little olive oil over medium heat for 3 minutes; spread on a plate to cool completely.
- 45 min
Mix cooled greens with grated Grana Padano, pecorino, eggs, chopped marjoram, a pinch of nutmeg and breadcrumbs; season with salt and pepper.
- 515 min
Roll dough paper-thin on a floured surface; spoon filling mounds at regular intervals on one half; fold the other half over and press firmly around each mound to seal; cut with a fluted pastry wheel into half-moon shapes.
- 612 min
Heat frying oil to 175–180°C; fry gattafin in uncrowded batches for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and blistered.
Watch outKeep the oil at 175–180°C and fry in small batches — crowding drops the temperature and the shells soak up grease instead of blistering.
- 72 min
Drain on absorbent paper and serve immediately while the crust is still shatteringly crisp.
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