Choripán Uruguayo

Choripán (chorizo + pan, 'sausage-bread') is the great shared food of the Southern Cone — Argentina, Uruguay, Chile all claim it. The Uruguayan version is distinguished by the chimichurri: the Uruguayan chimichurri is oilier and more finely chopped than the Argentine, often with hot pepper and oregano, and is the universal sauce for grilled meats. The choripán is the appetizer at every asado, eaten before the larger meats are ready — the cook's snack, the guest's first bite.

A crusty roll, split, with a smoky grilled chorizo inside, glistening with fat, stained orange with paprika. A generous drizzle of chimichurri — green, garlicky, tangy. The bread soaks up the sausage fat and the sauce. Eat it in three big bites, standing by the grill, with a beer.

The chorizo (fresh, not cured) is grilled slowly over moderate charcoal — too hot and the skin splits and the fat drains. It should be cooked through but juicy. The bread roll (pan francés) should be crusty outside and soft inside, and split just before eating (so it doesn't dry out). Chimichurri is the essential condiment — made ahead and rested so the flavors marry, never cooked.