
Created in early-20th-century Buenos Aires by the Banchero family of La Boca, whose Riachuelo bakery opened in 1893 (the named Pizzería Banchero followed in 1932); Juan Banchero developed the cheese-topped fugazza there, evolving from the simpler fugazza — itself an Argentine reading of Genovese focaccia brought by Ligurian immigrants. The cheese-stuffed double-crust version is specifically porteño, not Italian, and tied to the city's cheese-heavy pizza style developed for Italian-Argentine working-class diners.
Early-20th-century Buenos Aires invention via Pizzería Banchero (founded 1932 in La Boca), evolved from the cheeseless fugazza — itself a porteño reading of Genovese focaccia. Double crust, mozzarella sealed inside, raw onion piled on top, no tomato. Onion has to be sliced thin or the centers stay sharp.
A double-crust pizza split through the middle, with a thick layer of mozzarella inside and a mountain of slow-cooked sliced onion and oregano on top — no tomato sauce. The crust is fluffy and bready, closer to focaccia than Neapolitan. Cut into wedges. The onion layer should be sweet and sagging, not raw; the cheese inside pulls when you lift a slice.
The trick is keeping the cheese layer molten without the bottom crust going soggy: bake the bottom blind for a few minutes first, lay the cheese, top with the second crust and onion, then finish hot. Onions go on raw on top — the oven softens and sweetens them, but they have to be sliced thin or the centers stay sharp. No tomato sauce: it would steam the dough and break the structure.
Variations
Fugazza (no cheese, just onion on focaccia, the older form); fugazzetta rellena (cheese stuffed inside, the canonical Banchero version); fugazzetta con jamón crudo adds prosciutto on top; El Cuartito and Güerrín are the other Buenos Aires reference points alongside Banchero.
On the Palate
Where Fugazzeta sits in the Argentinian flavor cloud
Ingredients
How it's made
6 steps · 1 hour 30 min
- 115 min
Dissolve yeast in warm water and mix with flour to form dough.
- 25 min
Let the dough rise until doubled in size.
- 35 min
Roll out the dough into a thick round base.
Watch outBlind-bake the bottom crust a few minutes before the cheese goes on — skip it and the molten cheese soaks the base soggy from below.
- 45 min
Layer mozzarella cheese generously over the base.
- 52 min
Top with sliced onions and sprinkle with oregano.
Watch outSlice the onions paper-thin before they go on top raw — thick slices stay sharp in the center; the oven only sweetens them if they're thin.
- 625 min
Bake in a hot oven until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is golden.
Watch outPull it when the cheese is bubbling and the crust is deep gold — no tomato sauce, so the browning of the dough is your only doneness signal.
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