Singaporean

Soon Kueh

Hainanese Singaporean·Hard·45 min

A translucent-skinned steamed dumpling filled with finely julienned turnip and bamboo shoots. Soft, slightly chewy and savoury, a pure Teochew tradition in Singapore, where bamboo shoots are commonly swapped for local turnip.

Soon kueh is a pure Teochew tradition in Singapore, a translucent-skinned steamed dumpling filled with finely julienned turnip and bamboo shoots. The name means bamboo-shoot dumpling in Teochew. In Singapore, bamboo shoots are commonly swapped for local turnip (jicama or mangkuang) as a local adaptation that defines the local version. Heritage Teochew kueh stalls, some 50 years old, are central to Singapore's heritage-kueh craft, and soon kueh is eaten for breakfast or as a snack with chilli and sweet black sauce.

A soft, slightly chewy, translucent wrapper around a savoury, crunchy-sweet turnip-and-prawn filling, the two textures distinct. Eaten with a dab of chilli and sweet sauce, it is delicate, savoury and the pure Teochew hawker bite.

The wrapper is made from a hot-water dough of rice flour and tapioca flour, which gives the translucency and the soft, slightly chewy bite. The dough is rolled thin, filled with a pre-cooked mixture of julienned turnip, dried shrimp, garlic and seasoning, pleated shut, and steamed until the wrapper turns translucent. The tapioca-to-rice ratio and the hot-water dough technique are what give the wrapper its signature texture.

Variations

A bamboo-shoot version uses real bamboo. Some add dried mushroom to the filling.

On the Palate

Where Soon Kueh sits in the Singaporean flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 8

How it's made

6 steps · 45 min

  1. 1
    10 min

    Mix 150g tapioca flour and 100g rice flour; pour in 350ml boiling water and stir to a hot dough; knead smooth; rest 20 minutes.

    Watch out

    Pour the boiling water into the flours and work it straight into a hot dough — cool water leaves the wrapper stiff instead of soft and stretchy.

  2. 2
    8 min

    For the filling: julienne 400g turnip (or bamboo shoot); squeeze dry.

  3. 3
    10 min

    Fry 4 cloves garlic and 30g soaked dried shrimp in 2 tbsp oil; add the turnip, 1 tbsp light soy, 1 tsp sugar and pepper; cook until dry; cool.

    Watch out

    Cook the turnip filling until it's completely dry — any leftover moisture makes the wrapper split open while steaming.

  4. 4
    12 min

    Roll the dough thin; cut into 10cm rounds; place a spoon of filling on each; pleat into a half-moon.

  5. 5
    10 min

    Steam on oiled banana leaf 10 minutes until the wrappers turn translucent.

    Watch out

    Steam just until the wrappers turn translucent — that see-through look is the doneness cue; oversteam and they slump and tear.

  6. 6
    4 min

    Serve hot with chilli and sweet black sauce.

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