Syrian

Mabruma

Coast·Medium·50 min

A cylinder-shaped knafeh pastry: thin shredded dough (kadayif) wound tightly around chopped Aleppo pistachios, brushed with butter, baked golden, then soaked in fragrant syrup — the iconic rolled form of the Syrian knafeh repertoire, a centerpiece of Damascus sweets shops.

Mabruma is one of the flagship forms of the Damascus knafeh-dough repertoire — the name means rolled or twisted. The city's pastry chefs developed dozens of forms (rolled, nested, layered) from the same basic shredded-dough technique, and Mabruma is the iconic rolled form. It is a centerpiece of the Damascus sweets quarter (notably Al-Midan) and of famous Damascene confectioners. The heavy use of Aleppo pistachios reflects the historic trade link between Damascus and Aleppo — the nuts travel south to be rolled into the capital's pastries.

The tightly wound kataifi shatters in crisp threads around a dense, damp, vividly green pistachio core. The syrup has soaked through to the center, so each bite is sweet and wet with perfume; the butter gives a rich undertone. It is the pistachio, intense and almost grassy, that dominates.

Kataifi (shredded thread dough) is wound tightly around the filling so the strands overlap into a continuous cylinder that holds its shape and crisps uniformly. Brushing with melted butter (not oil) is essential: butter's milk solids brown during baking, adding nutty flavor, while the fat conducts heat to crisp every strand. The pistachio filling is bound with a little syrup or sugar so it holds together when sliced. Pouring hot syrup onto the hot-from-the-oven pastry drives rapid capillary absorption into the porous kataifi without making it soggy. Slicing only after cooling lets the syrup set and the cylinder firm up so rounds hold their shape.

Variations

Walnut or cashew can replace pistachio. A finer version uses ghee instead of butter. Some add a layer of clotted cream inside.

On the Palate

Where Mabruma sits in the Syrian flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 12

How it's made

5 steps · 50 min

  1. 1
    4 min

    Thaw 250g kataifi dough; separate the strands and toss with 120g melted butter until evenly coated.

  2. 2
    4 min

    Lay a sheet of kataifi on a clean work surface in a rectangular layer about 20cm wide; sprinkle a thick line of 200g finely chopped Aleppo pistachios mixed with 2 tbsp sugar along the near edge.

  3. 3
    3 min

    Roll the kataifi tightly around the pistachio filling into a firm cylinder; transfer to a buttered baking sheet, seam down; repeat to make 2-3 cylinders.

    Watch out

    Roll the kataifi tight around the filling so the strands overlap into one solid log — a loose roll unravels and crisps unevenly in the oven.

  4. 4
    28 min

    Bake at 180°C for 25-30 minutes until deep golden and crisp all over.

    Watch out

    Bake until deep golden and crisp right through — pale patches mean the butter hasn't browned and those strands will stay soft and greasy.

  5. 5
    18 min

    While hot, pour warm sugar syrup (300g sugar, 200ml water, 1 tbsp lemon juice, simmered 8 minutes, then 1 tbsp orange-blossom water off heat) evenly over the cylinders; let rest 15 minutes, then cut each cylinder into 3cm rounds; arrange cut-side up and top with extra pistachios.

    Watch out

    Pour warm syrup over the pastry while both are hot — the heat pulls the syrup deep in without sogginess; cold-on-cold and it just sits greasy on top.

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Techniques

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