
A New Orleans Sicilian-Italian sandwich: a round sesame-crusted loaf split and layered with cured meats, cheeses, and a marinated olive salad whose oil soaks through the bread.
Invented in 1906 by Salvatore Lupo, a Sicilian immigrant, at Central Grocery on Decatur Street in the French Quarter, for Sicilian farmers who came to sell produce at the nearby French Market. They'd order bread, meats, cheese, and olive salad separately; Lupo combined them onto one loaf so workers could eat one-handed. The sandwich is named for the muffuletta — the round Sicilian sesame loaf itself. Central Grocery still sells the original (from a temporary location after its Decatur Street store was damaged by Hurricane Ida).
Invented 1906 by Salvatore Lupo at Central Grocery on Decatur Street, New Orleans — Sicilian farmers at the French Market wanted bread, meats, cheese, and olive salad they could eat one-handed. The olive salad's oil migrating into the bread is the dish; eat it before that happens and you have a cold cuts sandwich. Sit it an hour minimum.
A round 10-inch sesame-crusted Sicilian loaf split horizontally, layered with mortadella, salami, capicola, provolone, mozzarella, and a chopped olive salad whose oil soaks down into the bread. Sold in halves or quarters because a whole feeds four. Eat it after it's sat an hour — the olive oil migration is the point. Fresh-built, the bread is dry and the layers slide.
The olive salad is load-bearing. Green olives, kalamata, giardiniera, garlic, oregano, olive oil — chopped, marinated overnight minimum. Without the oil saturating the bread, it's just a cold cuts sandwich. The Sicilian loaf is denser than French bread by design: it has to absorb without disintegrating. Substitute ciabatta and the bottom turns to mush in 20 minutes.
Variations
Central Grocery (Decatur Street) is the 1906 original; Cochon Butcher in the Warehouse District runs theirs hot-pressed; Napoleon House serves a warm muffuletta — Lupo's family contests this is non-canonical; Brocato's bakery still supplies the round Sicilian loaf.
On the Palate
Where Muffuletta sits in the Cajun flavor cloud
Ingredients
How it's made
5 steps · 30 min
- 12 min
Cut the Italian bread in half horizontally.
- 23 min
Spread olive salad generously on both halves.
Watch outSpread the olive salad thick and let its oil soak right into the cut bread — that oil is the sandwich; a dry loaf makes it just cold cuts on bread.
- 33 min
Layer salami, mortadella, ham, and provolone on one half.
- 43 min
Place the other half on top and press down.
Watch outPress the closed sandwich down firmly — you're compacting the layers so the oil works through and it holds together when sliced, not sliding apart.
- 518 min
Wrap in foil and let sit for flavors to meld before slicing.
Watch outWrap tight and let it rest at least a half-hour before cutting — the bread needs that time to drink the oil and the flavors to settle; slice it right away and it's dry and loose.
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