French

Bouchee a la Reine

Hard·50 min

A small individual vol-au-vent of puff pastry filled with a savory mixture in a white sauce — classically chicken or sweetbreads with mushrooms. Named for a queen of France, by tradition Marie Leszczynska, wife of Louis XV; the dish was codified in the nineteenth century by Marie-Antoine Careme, who standardized the vol-au-vent family.

Bouchee a la Reine is a small individual round puff-pastry case — a miniature vol-au-vent — filled with a savory mixture in a white sauce. The dish is named for a queen of France; by tradition, the queen is Marie Leszczynska, queen consort from 1725 to 1768 and wife of Louis XV. The small pastry cases are said to have been created in her honor at court, though the documentary basis for the specific attribution is uncertain. The preparation was refined and popularized in the nineteenth century by Marie-Antoine Careme, who standardized the vol-au-vent family of dishes of which the bouchee is the small individual version. The classic filling is chicken or veal sweetbreads with mushrooms in a veloute or bechamel-based white sauce.

A bouchee a la Reine arrives as a golden, hollow puff-pastry case, the lid set beside it, filled to the brim with chicken and mushrooms in a glossy white sauce. The pastry is flaky and shattering, the filling rich and savory; the contrast of the crisp shell against the creamy interior is the point. Eaten hot, the dish is a classic of the starter course.

Bouchee a la Reine rests on the lamination of puff pastry and a white-sauce filling. The case is made from pate feuilletee — puff pastry — cut into a small cylinder with a recessed lid, then baked; in the oven, the water in the dough's butter turns to steam and lifts the hundreds of alternating dough-and-butter layers apart, and the proteins set the inflated, hollow shape. Baking blind keeps the cavity open for filling. The white sauce — a veloute or bechamel thickened with a roux — is the binder; the sweetbreads or chicken and mushrooms are folded in and the whole is ladled into the case just before serving, so the pastry stays crisp. The case's flakiness against the creamy filling is the dish's defining contrast.

Variations

Modern fillings frequently use chicken, mushrooms, and a creamy sauce; historic versions included cock's combs and kidneys. The puff-pastry case and the white-sauce filling are the constants.

On the Palate

Where Bouchee a la Reine sits in the French flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 4

How it's made

6 steps · 50 min

  1. 1
    35 min

    Cut puff pastry into small cylinders with a recessed lid; bake blind until puffed, hollow, and golden.

    Watch out

    Bake the cases blind until puffed and hollow — the steam must lift all the layers apart, or the case stays flat with no cavity to fill.

  2. 2
    15 min

    Cook chicken (or sweetbreads) and mushrooms; set aside.

  3. 3
    10 min

    Make a veloute: cook butter and flour to a roux, whisk in chicken stock, simmer until thick.

    Watch out

    Cook the roux and whisk in stock until the velouté is thick and smooth — a thin sauce runs out of the case and won't hold the filling.

  4. 4
    10 min

    Fold the chicken and mushrooms into the veloute; season well.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Lift the lids off the pastry cases; fill generously with the hot mixture.

    Watch out

    Fill the cases only just before serving — sit filled too long and the hot sauce softens the pastry into a soggy shell.

  6. 6
    5 min

    Replace the lids at an angle and serve at once.

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