A raw-cured, smoked pork Rohwurst from northern Germany, never cooked before eating. The northern type — Streichmettwurst nach Braunschweiger Art — is soft and spreadable, the meat finely minced with curing salt and plenty of garlic, smoked over beechwood until it sets to a coral paste. It is scraped straight from the casing onto buttered dark bread or a halved roll, often crowned with raw onion rings. Harder Holstein-style versions are smoked longer and sliced like salami.
Mettwurst takes its name from the Low German word Mett, meaning lean minced pork without bacon, itself descended from the Old Saxon meti — 'food' — the same root that gives English 'meat'. Curing and smoking raw minced pork was a rural preservation craft across the north German plain, documented since at least the 16th century, that let farmhouses keep meat through the year without refrigeration. The dish split along a regional line: in the north and the Braunschweig (Brunswick) area it stayed soft and spreadable, while toward Holstein and the south it was smoked harder into a sliceable, salami-like sausage. Streichmettwurst nach Braunschweiger Art remains the reference for the spreadable kind.
Spread cold from the casing, it is a soft, glossy coral paste, just firm enough to hold a knife's edge. The flavor is direct — pork, fermented tang, smoke and a hard push of raw garlic — with a faint grain from the curing. On dense rye it eats rich and meaty; a layer of raw onion cuts straight through the fat. Because it is uncooked, freshness is everything: a clean lactic tang is right, anything sour or slippery is not.
Mettwurst is preserved by curing and lactic fermentation, not by heat. Salt and nitrite curing salt draw out water and suppress spoilage bacteria while letting lactic-acid bacteria work, which drops the pH, firms the protein and builds the tang; the coral-red color is fixed by the nitrite. Cold-smoking over beechwood at well under 30°C lays down phenols that flavor and further protect the meat without cooking it, so the spreadable texture survives. The spreadable type is finely minced and held softer; the sliceable type is air-dried and smoked longer to lose more water.
Variations
Streichmettwurst nach Braunschweiger Art is the soft, spreadable benchmark; Holsteiner Mettwurst is smoked far longer into a firm, sliceable sausage. Zwiebelmettwurst folds chopped raw onion into the mince. In the south and Rhineland the fresh, unsmoked mince eaten the same day is sold simply as Mett (the topping for a Mettbrötchen), distinct from this cured northern Wurst.
On the Palate
Where Mettwurst sits in the German flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6How it's made
6 steps · 2 days
- 140 min
Chill lean pork and back fat to near-freezing, then mince fine with curing salt, garlic, white pepper and a little sugar.
- 215 min
Knead the mince until tacky and evenly bound, keeping it cold throughout.
Watch outKnead the mince until it turns tacky and binds, keeping it cold the whole time — that stickiness is the protein binding; if the fat warms and smears, the texture breaks.
- 330 min
Stuff firmly into natural casings, prick out air pockets and tie into links.
- 42880 min
Hang in a cool, humid place for 1 to 2 days so the cure penetrates and fermentation begins.
- 5720 min
Cold-smoke over beechwood at under 30°C in cycles until the surface darkens and the sausage sets.
Watch outCold-smoke under 30 degrees until the surface darkens and the sausage firms — go any hotter and you cook it, losing the spreadable texture.
- 65760 min
Mature in the cold a few more days, then keep refrigerated and serve scraped onto buttered dark bread with raw onion.
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