Ikan Bakar Jimbaran

The grilled-seafood trade at Jimbaran grew out of the fishing village of Kedonganan on the bay, where local fishermen began grilling their catch for visitors who wandered the beach; by most accounts the cluster of seafood warungs took shape over the last few decades, riding Bali's tourism boom, rather than from a single dated founding. The cooking itself draws on Bali's grilling tradition and its base genep, applied to whatever the boats bring in. It has become one of the island's defining eating experiences, fish chosen fresh and grilled at the table's edge.

The skin chars to a smoky, lacquered crust while the flesh stays moist and flakes apart, carrying the deep, slightly sweet flavour of the spice-and-soy baste. Then the sambals take over: sambal matah is raw, crunchy and bracingly fresh with lemongrass, shallot and chili, while sambal tomat is cooked, mellow and tangy — the contrast of fire-and-smoke fish against one raw and one cooked sauce is the whole point.

Live coals give two things: searing radiant heat that chars and caramelises the surface, and smoke that perfumes the flesh. The spice paste, often loosened with sweet soy sauce, is brushed on in stages so its sugars caramelise into a dark glaze without burning before the fish is cooked through — basting also keeps the surface from drying over the fierce heat. Sambal matah is left raw to stay sharp and crunchy, while sambal tomat is cooked down so its acidity rounds out; serving both gives the palate a fresh foil and a savoury one against the rich grilled seafood.