A chilled Persian milk pudding whose name means "ice in heaven" — a sweetened milk thickened with cornstarch and rice flour into a soft, cool, trembling cream scented with rosewater. It is poured into bowls, set in the fridge until just firm, and finished with crushed pistachios and slivered almonds. Lighter and more delicate than custard, it is a summer dessert above all, prized for the clean floral coolness that gives it its heavenly name.
Yakh dar Behesht is a domestic Persian sweet of the warm months, its poetic name — "ice in heaven" — capturing the relief of something cold, pale and perfumed on a hot day. It sits in the same family of soft starch-set milk puddings as fereni and the firmer masghati, distinguished by being made deliberately light and very cold. It carries no ceremonial weight: it is simply a refreshing, easily made dessert for the table and for guests in summer, scented with the rosewater that runs through so much of Persian sweet cookery.
Cool, soft and just set — it quivers on the spoon and dissolves cleanly in the mouth, lighter and looser than a firm jelly. The flavour is gentle and milky, lifted by a clear note of rosewater that reads as floral and almost cooling in itself. Lightly sweet rather than sugary. The pistachios and almonds scattered over the top give the contrast: a green, nutty crunch against the smooth cold cream.
Cornstarch and rice flour together do the setting: whisked into cold milk before heating so they disperse without lumps, then cooked until the starch granules swell and gelatinise, thickening the milk to a body that sets soft on chilling. Cornstarch gives a clear, tender, trembling set while the rice flour adds a little more structure — the blend is what keeps it light rather than rubbery. Constant stirring stops the starch sinking and scorching, and the rosewater is added at the end so its perfume is not boiled off before the pudding goes cold.
Variations
Set firmer or looser by adjusting the starch; some make it with cornstarch alone for the softest, most quivering texture; lightly tinted or flavoured with a touch of saffron in some homes; topped with rosewater syrup as well as nuts; coconut sometimes added alongside the pistachios and almonds.
On the Palate
Where Yakh dar Behesht sits in the Persian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
6 steps · 10 min
- 15 min
Whisk cornstarch and rice flour into a portion of the cold milk until completely smooth.
Watch outWhisk the starches into cold milk until fully smooth before any heat — mix them into hot milk and they clump instantly.
- 25 min
Heat the remaining milk with the sugar until warm, then pour in the starch mixture, stirring constantly.
- 312 min
Cook over low to medium heat, stirring without stop, until the milk thickens to a soft pudding.
Watch outStir without stopping over low heat until it thickens to a soft pudding — the starch sinks and scorches the second you pause.
- 42 min
Stir in the rosewater off the heat.
Watch outStir the rosewater in off the heat — added while it's still cooking, its perfume boils away before the pudding chills.
- 5180 min
Pour into individual bowls and let cool, then chill until just set.
- 62 min
Top with crushed pistachios and slivered almonds before serving cold.
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