Milanesa a la Napolitana

Milanesa a la napolitana is the single most popular variant of the milanesa, Argentina's beloved breaded cutlet. The story goes that in the 1940s, a customer at a Buenos Aires restaurant called Napoli asked for something extra on his milanesa; the cook improvised by adding ham, tomato sauce and mozzarella, then ran it under the broiler. The result became a national classic. The base is a standard milanesa: a thin breaded veal or beef cutlet, fried golden. On top go a slice of cooked ham, a ladle of tomato sauce, and mozzarella, then the whole goes under the broiler until the cheese melts and bubbles. It is the most-ordered dish in Argentine restaurants, served with mashed potato or fries.

Crisp golden breading on the bottom, then tender meat, then melted mozzarella over ham and tangy tomato sauce, bubbling and rich. Cut through it and the layers hold together, the crunch of the milanesa against the soft, gooey topping.

The dish layers a fried milanesa under a baked topping. The milanesa is made first: a thin cutlet, pounded, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs, fried golden in oil. Then it is transferred to a baking tray, topped with a slice of cooked ham, a spoonful of tomato sauce (seasoned with oregano and garlic), and sliced mozzarella. The tray goes under a hot broiler for 3 to 5 minutes until the cheese melts, bubbles and browns in spots. The milanesa's crust softens slightly under the topping but retains its crunch at the edges. The timing is critical: too long under the broiler and the crust turns soggy; too short and the cheese is not melted.