Guangxi (south-central China — borders Vietnam) shares the karst-limestone landscape of Guilin and Yangshuo, and the kitchen straddles southern Han Chinese, Zhuang minority (largest ethnic minority in China), and Vietnamese influence. Rice noodles are the regional carbohydrate.

Guilin Rice Noodles (Guilin Mifen) — round white rice noodles in a beef-bone broth (or dry-mixed), topped with crispy peanuts, pickled cowpea, fragrant brisket, and a spoonful of locally fermented lubo (a chili-garlic sauce that gives the dish its bite).

Luosifen — Liuzhou river-snail rice noodles — is the cuisine's recent breakout. The broth is stewed from river snails for hours, then strained out; the snails don't appear in the bowl but their funk does. Pickled bamboo shoot (suan sun) gives a fermentation note often called "stinky" by first-timers — and addictive after.

Beihai oysters and shrimp from the Beibu Gulf, Hengxian jasmine for tea and rice perfume, Wuzhou turtle jelly (gui ling gao) — black grass-jelly bitter dessert sold in Hong Kong from Wuzhou roots. Sour-and-spicy sour-bamboo-shoot pork, hand-pounded oil tea (you cha), Zhuang five-color glutinous rice all live here.

The Pantry

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Signature Dishes (1)

Other regions

Siblings within Chinese — each its own tradition.